SMALL ENGINES AND 
BOILERS 




Vertical Engine of Five Horse-Power. 






Small Engines and Boilers 

A MANUAL 



CONCISE AND SPECIFIC DIRECTIONS FOR THE CON- 
STRUCTION OF SMALL STEAM ENGINES 
AND BOILERS OF MODERN TYPES, 

FROM FIVE HORSE POWER DOWN TO MODEL SIZES, 

FOR 

AMATEURS AND OTHERS INTERESTED IN SUCH WORK. 



BY 

EGBERT F\ WATSON. 

Late Editor and Proprietor of The Engineer. 

Author of "Modern Practice," ''Manual of the Hand Lathe," 

"How to Run Engines and Boilers," "The Professor 

in the Machine Shop," etc., etc. 

Illustrated by jo Full Page Working Dimensioned Drawings* 




NEW YORK 

D. VAN NOSTRAND COMPANY. 

1899 



SECOND ,jPY, 
IbbJ. 




4^ 



40926 

Copyright, 1899, by 
D. VAN NOSTRAND COMPANY. 



<<* 




<*>* 




C J. PETERS & SON, TYPOGRAPHERS) 

BOSTON. 







PREFACE. 



The intention of the author in writing this work 
has been to furnish specific directions and correct 
dimensioned plans for small engines and boilers, 
used either for pleasure or power purposes, in lieu 
of sketches and gossip about such machines. It 
has been assumed that those who need a guide of 
this kind have some acquaintance with ordinary 
machine work, and the usual facilities for it, if even 
but a small lathe and a vice-bench ; with this out- 
fit a great deal may be done. 

The boilers shown will do a great deal of work 
for their superficial dimensions, if properly man- 
aged. They have ample grates and heating 
surfaces, and will maintain a steady evaporation 
continuously with good fuel and management. 
The w r ork also contains hints upon lathe-work, 
vice-work, and finishing metals, which it is believed 



VI PREFACE. 

will be of service to those who have had but a 
limited experience. 

High expansion engines have not been treated, 
for the reason that they are beyond the mechani- 
cal and engineering experience of the majority 
of persons who will purchase a work of this char- 
acter. 



TABLE OF CONTENTS. 



CHAPTER I. 
Introductory; Illustration of Vertical Engine .... 1-3 

CHAPTER II. 

Drawings. Example of Skeleton Drawing. Explanation 

of Methods used to design engines 4-10 

CHAPTER III. 

Plans for Vertical Engine of 3" by 4" Cylinder. Illustra- 
tion of Small Vertical Engine of f" Cylinder by 1" 
Stroke; View of Horizontal Engine 11-17 

CHAPTER IV. 

Discursive as to Ways and Means of doing Work ; the 
Best Tools for the Purpose and Methods employed 
by Practical Men to produce Certain Results . . . 18-22 

CHAPTER V. 

Engine Details. Figured Plans for Various Members of 
Launch Engine 3" by 4". Concise Directions for 
Completing Each Part in Full 23-32 

CHAPTER VI. 

Further Details. Discussion of Ways and Means, and the 
Fitting-up of Cross-head, Connecting-rod, Crank- 
disk, and Eccentrics 33 - 4° 



Vlll TABLE OF CONTENTS. 

CHAPTER VII. PAGE 

The Link Motion and How to Construct it. Remarks 
upon its Functions and Operation. Reverse Gear 
and Piston Construction 41-48 

CHAPTER VIII. 

The Bed-plate Illustrated and Remarks upon the Neces- 
sity of Accurate Execution of Certain Portions of 
the Engine 49-5 1 

CHAPTER IX. 

Plans for Valve-stem, Stuffing-box, and Connecting-rod. 
Careful Fitting of Certain Details enjoined. Return 
Crank Valve Motion 52—57 

CHAPTER X. 

The Horizontal Engine and How to Build it. Full Fig- 
ured Dimensions of the Principal Details with In- 
structions How to execute Them. Consideration of 
the Eccentric, Bed-plate, Pillow-block, Connecting- 
rod, and Cross-head 58-83 

CHAPTER XL 

Setting Eccentrics. Detailed Explanation of the Process. 
The Link Motion continued and discussed in Fuller 
Detail. Various Kinds of Machine Finish, Solder- 
ing, and Brazing 84-96 

CHAPTER XII. 

Discussion of Boilers and Figured Plans for Small Pow- 
ers. Vertical Boilers of One-horse Power. Rule 
for Bursting-pressure of Boiler-shells ; Tubes and 
Heating Surfaces ; Water-tube Boilers .... 97-108 



SMALL ENGINES AND BOILERS 



CHAPTER I. 

The difference between amateur work of all 
kinds and that of expert workmen is to be found 
in its lack of finish, disproportion in sizes, and 
haste in assembling it. These are common faults ; 
and since they are easily remedied there is no 
reason why they should not be, if the directions 
given in this volume are carefully followed. 

Lack of finish is sometimes caused by want of 
the proper agents, files, polishing materials, etc. ; 
but as these are easily obtainable in all parts of 
the country by mail from the larger cities, there 
is no excuse for being in want of them ; the 
several mediums employed will be enumerated in 
the proper place. Disproportion in sizes is easily 
avoided by considering the work done by the de- 
tail to be made and the material employed in its 
construction, allowing a large margin for safety 
against accidental strains. 

For example : the cylinder of a steam engine 
is always of cast-iron, or, in model engines, it is 
sometimes of brass to avoid rusting when idle 



2 SMALL ENGINES AND BOILERS. 

and to impart elegance of appearance ; it does 
not require to be of great thickness, even for very 
high pressures. I have seen steam fire-engines 
worked at 200 pounds per square inch having 6- 
inch cylinders only i of 1 inch thick ; the heads 
being of the same thickness. No accident ever 
occurred to them. The same cylinder in a station- 
ary engine would be 1 inch, or I of 1 inch, thick to 
allow for re-boring ; but the first-mentioned cylin- 
der was entirely within the limits of safety. In 
model engines it is quite common to make a cyl- 
inder of 2 inches diameter I of an inch thick, for 
the assumed reason that it is easier to make a 
sound casting of the proper temper for machining 
than one that is lighter. These considerations 
hold good in practice, but there is nothing to pre- 
vent such a cylinder being bored out so as to leave 
it only i 3 e of an inch thick ; the result being that 
the machine as a whole is lighter and not im- 
paired as to its duty. 

Haste in assembling or putting machines to- 
gether is inexcusable for an amateur, who is sup- 
posed to have plenty of time at his command ; and 
it arises from a desire to see how the machine 
will look when it is put together, but, as a conse- 
quence, it looks badly. Parts are shoved together 
anyhow, in line or out of line, and hastily connected 
before they are half finished so that an expert 
workman can tell at a glance that a 'prentice hand 
did the work. 

I have alluded to these common errors in ama- 



SMALL ENGINES AND BOILERS. 3 

teur work for the reason that it is requisite to 
know what not to do as well as what must be 
done in order to get out a creditable piece of 
work ; and surely if a thing is worth doing at all 
it is worth doing well. 

Of all things amateurs should avoid makeshift 
methods, such as soft soldering parts together 
that should be bolted and screwed fast, or using 
bent wires or parts not turned true where it is 
necessary to use connections. Soldering is a 
tinker's job, and belongs to pots and pans, not 
to machine-work with any pretence to accuracy 
and durability. We can make an alleged steam 
engine out of sheet-brass and tin soldered to- 

<z> 

gether with wires for connections ; but the time 
spent upon such work is wasted, for the job com- 
plete is not worth a moment's notice. It will not 
stand any pressure at all or do any w r ork, whereas, 
if the amateur follows the instructions in this book, 
he will have an engine and a boiler that will do a 
good deal of work, even to driving quite a number 
of tools, or a boat 20 feet long, which will carry a 
dozen people. Such an engine would seem to be 
outside the pale of amateur work, but this is not 
the case ; for it weighs complete but 90 pounds, 
and no detail is beyond the capacity of a lathe 
that will swing 6 inches over the ways and take 
24 inches between centres. Complete figured 
drawings appear farther on for this engine, as 
also the way to make a. drawing for any engine 
or machine. 



CHAPTER II. 

DRAWINGS. 

An amateur should never make any machine 
without a drawing of some kind, showing all the 
connections, the lengths of them, and where they 
come or are attached. For want of this very 
necessary preliminary he may find that he has to 
either rebuild or else cut away parts that interfere, 
not only doing the work twice over, but making 
a botched job after all ; for any work that is not 
designed properly on the start never comes right 
at the end — if it ever has an end. 

It is not necessary to show every bolt and nut 
in such a drawing ; but it is necessary to show 
every connection, the frame, and the lengths and 
widths of the steam gear, such as the valve and 
valve chest, the ports, eccentrics, and rocker arms, 
if any are used, pillow-blocks and shaft, crank 
and fly wheel, etc. When this is done the ama- 
teur can go ahead, secure in the knowledge that 
he will have a good job if the work is properly 
executed, and that he will not have to do any of 
the work twice. Such drawings are called skele- 
ton drawings, and are used in some of the largest 
shops in the country. Fig. i shows such a draw- 



SMALL ENGINES AND BOILERS. 

A 




Fig. x. 



SMALL ENGINES AND BOILERS. 




Fig. 2. 



SMALL ENGINES AND BOILERS. 7 

ing in its incipiency. The first thing- is to draw 
the centre and base lines. Suppose we mean to 
make a vertical engine of any size — 2-inch cylin- 
der by 3- or 4-inch stroke ; then we draw the 
centre line A, which shows the centre of the 
cylinder, and at the bottom the base B, which 
shows the bed-plate top. We have, of course, 
determined previously just what dimensions we 
intend to use, and figured all the lengths, so that 
we know what height the engine will be. For 
example : the cylinder is to have 2-inch bore, 
by 3-inch stroke, the piston is to be I of i inch 
thick, and the steam ports \ of i inch wide, the 
cylinder-flanges are to be tV thick each ; then 
the length of the cylinder would be : -top flange 
A, upper port A, including piston clearance, pis- 
ton f of 1 inch, and stroke 3 inches ; bottom 
port f¥> including clearance, and bottom flange 
ft ; the cylinder top and head is the same thick- 
ness as the flanges ; and the stuffing-box is 1 inch, 
including the gland when in its working position. 
Now add all these together, and we have the 
net length of the cylinder complete, to wit : 5^ 
inches over flanges, and 6\ inches over stuffing- 
box gland screwed home. We mark these sev- 
eral dimensions (not in detail, but in gross as on 
the skeleton drawing). Whatever clearance is 
needed between the cross-head and the gland — 
say half an inch — is then marked, and the length 
of the cross-head jaws, say 2 inches. Right in 
the centre of this, we draw a circle for the wrist- 



8 SMALL ENGINES AND BOILERS. 

pin so-called ; and from that we measure the 
length of the connecting rod, usually three times 
the piston stroke, say 9 inches. This also gives 
the centre of the shaft-bearing or pillow-block 
when the piston is at half-stroke. Adding these 
distances we find a certain length over all, to 
which must again be added the depth of the pillow 
block, measured from the centre of the shaft to 
the bottom. This gives the total height of the 
engine over all, from top of cylinder head to top 
of bed- plate, but not the height of the frame, for 
that depends upon what sort of a connection is 
used to support the cylinder. Suppose a bracket 
to be cast on the cylinder at D, then the height 
of the frame would be from the under side of the 
bracket to the top of the bed-plate and is easily 
arrived at. 

This is briefly the method of getting the main 
lengths, but has nothing to do with the details of 
the engine itself, and must not be confounded 
with them or with the drawing, Fig. 1, which is 
referred to as an example only. 



SMALL ENGINES AND BOILERS. 




// w .// 



Fig. 3. Frame of Launch Engine, 3" x 4 



IO 



SMALL ENGINES AND BOILERS. 




Fig. 4. Back Leg of Frame, 3" x 4" 



CHAPTER III. 

The plan mentioned having been followed, we 
are then ready to design details, and the cylinder 
naturally comes first : it is shown marked fin- 
ished sizes, Figs. \a and 5, and, as will be seen, is 
for a model engine of 3-inch cylinder by 4-inch 
stroke. This engine will easily develop 5-horse 
power at 800 revolutions per minute, which its 
short stroke enables it to attain readily. For such 
speeds the ports must be large and the exhaust 
free, so as to avoid back pressure on the piston ; 
a suitable boiler for this engine will be shown in 
the chapters devoted to boilers. 

We proceed to draw the cylinder by erecting 
the centre and base lines as before mentioned ; 
and in this view we need two centre-lines to de- 
velop it, as shown in A and B. The several 
dimensions alluded to in the second chapter are 
laid off in their order, and the sizes marked upon 
them. The bracket D is for the head of the 
frame or cylinder support. The cylinder will re- 
quire two views, as shown in Fig. \a, and the 
designer can adopt those shown or make any 
others for himself. 

All other details for this engine are shown in 
the several figures following. Another style of 



12 



SMALL ENGINES AND BOILERS. 



"Face 




e — o! i jio — & 



* 

■+- 

i 



C) 



C) 






^--p^^ 



--9£ 1 ? <X* ««* « - 13 /i6- •>■ 



-e — a 



o 



C) 



-e — & 



Fig. 4a. Cylinder-Plan and Section. 



SMALL ENGINES AND BOILERS. 



*3 



vertical engine which is much simpler and easier 
to make is shown in the illustration, Fig. 6 
This engine is wholly brass, except the columns 
which are of iron ; even they can be made of brass 
if preferred. The cylinder of this engine is only 
I of 1 inch bore, by 1 inch stroke, and weighs 




Fig. 5. End Vid^v of Cylinder. 



but 1 pound. It has, however, driven a small 
torpedo boat, 4 feet long by 6 inches wide, at 
the rate of 3 miles per hour with oil fuel under 
the boiler ; this latter will be shown in the chap- 



H 



SMALL ENGINES AND BOILERS. 




Fig. 6. Small Vertical Engine. 



SMALL ENGINES AND BOILERS. 1 5 

ters devoted to boilers. There are no figured 
dimensions on this engine, so the maker is left to 
follow his own ideas in regard to them. As may 
be seen, the columns are turned all over, and 
threaded for nuts at each end. The holes in the 
bed-plate and entablature are no larger than the 
thread, so that the latter fits tightly in them, and 
the several plates are made of sheet-brass, highly 
polished. The screws in the cylinder-head and 
steam-chest covers have screw-driver heads, and 
the piston is solid, with no packing whatever ; 
it merely fits the cylinder tightly. The steam-pipe 
is A bore, and the steam-ports are A wide by I 
long. The slide valve has A lap over the ports, 
each end, and the exhaust-port is i of i inch wide. 
With such minute dimensions as these it is not 
possible to cast the ports in, so the whole cylinder 
is cast solid, and bored out in the lathe. The 
ports are made by drilling in the end of the cyl- 
inder at the proper place and on the valve face, 
and the metal between the holes cut out with a 
small drift. 

It cannot be said of such engines that they are 
of any particular use ; but they serve as studies 
in small work and close fitting-, for as this en- 
gine makes some 2,000 revolutions per minute, 
it must be well made to stand the racket. The 
entire height of it is 8 inches, and width of base 
3i inches. Horizontal engines are shown, as a 
type of modern engines, in the plates to follow, 
which can be made of any dimensions to suit the 



i6 



SMALL ENGINES AND BOILERS. 




SMALL ENGINES AND BOILERS. 1 7 

views of the maker. The bed-plate is cast in 
one piece, faced in the lathe on the end where 
the cylinder is fastened, and has a single eccen- 
tric directly connected to the valve-stem without 
any rocker arm. A good proportion for it is to 
make the cylinder r 2 inch diameter by 3 inches 
stroke, ports tV wide by 1 inch long, exhaust- 
port I wide by 1 inch long, and lap of valve & on 
each end. The eccentric should have A throw, 
have a hole \ inch diameter for the shaft, and 
be 1 2- inch diameter over all, with a groove, I 
of an inch wide by tV deep ; the straps for the 
eccentric should be of brass. 

A more elaborate plan with figured dimensions 
is shown on page 6 1 , et seq. 




CHAPTER IV. 

Torpedo-Boat engines, so called, are simply 
vertical engines of the type shown in Fig. 6, being 
very light and driven at very high speed as to 
revolutions. There are no other peculiarities 
about them. They are all steel as to the connec- 
tions ; and the shafts, piston-rods, and connecting- 
rods are hollow to reduce the weight of them, 
and, it is needless to say, are built in the very 
best manner. 

Of course there are innumerable other classes 
of engines in use to some extent, but those 
shown are the principal ones. Oscillating en- 
gines are no longer used for any purpose, except 
here and there for small pumps or other special 
work. Neither are vibrating engines, so-called, 
which have a piston like a door swinging on its 
hinges, or square cylinder engines, which consist 
of two rectangular pistons (one inside the other), 
moving in a square cast-iron box. I do not 
show these engines ; for they are in the nature of 
freaks, and are of no particular interest when 
made. Nothing is to be seen externally except 
square or round cast-iron boxes, without any 
finish or moving parts. The same is true of the 
rotary engine. It is merely a more or less com- 

18 



SMALL ENGINES AND BOILERS. 1 9 

plicated wheel (or piston) revolved by steam in a 
cylindrical case, and takes a lot of steam to run 
it. That is why it is not in use. 

Now having shown several types of modern 
engines, or those in daily use doing the work of 
the world, let us look at the methods used to pro- 
duce them. The drawings are the first thing, and 
these have been mentioned, but after the drawings 
come the patterns for the castings. These can be 
made by amateurs with ample time and facilities, 
but, as a rule, they should not be attempted ; for 
they involve special knowledge as to facility of 
moulding them, and fine finish to produce smooth 
castings. Moreover, the patterns for model work 
are so small that they will cost very little, and it 
is better in all cases to get them made by reg- 
ular pattern-makers. A steam-cylinder with cored 
ports cannot be made by amateurs, and must be 
got from men skilled in the business. For very 
small work no patterns are needed, for much of 
it can be cut out of the solid quite as quickly as 
from a casting. 

The next thing to be considered is the tools to 
be used, and this is an important matter. It is 
quite useless to undertake to do good work with- 
out the proper tools, — sharp files, reamers, and 
screw-cutting tools. These last are now made 
so cheaply, and with such excellent threads and 
dies, that no amateur should be without a set. 
Where it can be avoided there is no need of cut- 
ting a thread in the lathe, for small rods are very 



20 SMALL ENGINES AND BOILERS. 

hard to handle in this way. But a few years ago 
there was nothing better to be had than a Stubbs's 
jam-plate, so-called, because it made a thread by 
pushing or jamming the metal in ridges ahead of 
it ; but the modern screw-sets cut long shavings 
out of the metal as they advance, and are far 
better and quicker for amateurs than threads cut 
with a tool in a lathe. 

Lathes themselves vary greatly, and some are 
not worth the room they occupy. Where money 
is no object there is no excuse for having a bad 
lathe ; and while they can be bought for almost 
any price (foot-power lathes are alluded to), it is 
better to get a modern lathe of the Pratt and 
Whitney, or Gisholt Machine Company's make 
than a mere trap which never by any chance turns 
anything the same size for three consecutive 
inches. Cheap lathes cost about $60, — those with 
slide rests, so-called, and screw-cutting gear, — 
but a good reliable tool will cost from $150 to 
$250; but it is complete in all parts, with many 
extra fixtures for doing work not belonging to 
lathes usually, such as milling, gear-cutting, angle- 
plates for facing, etc., and is well worth the extra 
cost. Some of the better class of lathes are fitted 
with small countershafts carried on standards set 
in the top of the table, so as to drive special 
cutters or emery wheels for surface grinding. For 
ambitious amateurs these are the tools to buy ; 
although it is not to be denied that good work 
can be done on cheap lathes if men are skilful, 



SMALL ENGINES AND BOILERS. 2 1 

and are willing to spend the extra time required. 
When it is considered that one buys such a tool 
for a lifetime it is better to have a good one than 
a bad one. 

To dilate further upon the work that it is possi- 
ble to do in a lathe, we may instance the plane sur- 
face of the valve seat of an engine, and any flat 
surface usually executed in a shaper or planer, or 
else slowly and laboriously removed by chipping 
and filing. The cylinder of the engine alluded to 
is 3^ inches from the centre in its widest part, so 
it will not swing on what is called a 6-inch lathe ; 
but few lathes are as small as this, and if the 
owner of one has no better means of doing the 
work in question, he can raise the head and put 
half an inch of wood under it, lengthening the belt 
temporarily. Supposing, however, that the lathe 
will swing it, the cylinder is chucked on the face- 
plate, or in any way that will hold it, with the valve 
seat out ; it can then be faced fair and true the 
the same as any other flat surface. The steam- 
ports should be filled with strips of wood to keep 
the tool from gouging or jumping in. The seat 
for the steam-chest, which is lower than the valve 
face, can be squared for a short distance so as to 
indicate the depth, the rest of the metal being 
removed by filing. 

Face-plates are very essential tools, and these 
can be made in a lathe easily, up to the full diam- 
eter that the lathe will swing. Get a couple of 
cast-iron disks, made as large as are needed, i inch 



22 SMALL ENGINES AND BOILERS. 

thick. Have them cast the face side down so that 
they will be without blow-holes, and also have 
a projection on the back i inch deep by 3 inches 
diameter. This is handy to chuck them in the 
lathe by, and convenient for use on vice-work. 
Turn these disks all over to remove the outer 
skin, and when the working or true face is dressed 
off rub chalk all over it, and hold a straight edge 
on it when running slowly in the lathe. This 
will show at once whether the plate is concave or 
convex, and the workman must rectify it if needed. 
Now make another plate in the same way, and hav- 
ing trued both so that they are fair all over, put a 
little flour emery and oil on the faces and grind 
them together. This will give dead-true surfaces, 
and be available for any piece of work that is 
required to be an exact plane. 

The tasks of the amateur are materially lessened 
and increased accuracy assured by the infinite 
variety of small tools, gauges, drills, scales, etc., 
which abound in tool stores, and every one en- 
gaged in machine work should have a full outfit 
of them. It is useless to try to make them with 
the same accuracy that can be found in those 
purchased. 



CHAPTER V. 

THE ENGINE DETAILS. 

When getting castings for an engine, don't take 
them to the nearest foundry that makes any kind 
of castings, but send them to some concern that 
makes a specialty of small machine-castings. If 
a contrary course is pursued one is very likely to 
get hard iron, full of scabs and with bad faces on 
them. One concern will make castings for 4 
cents per pound while the other will charge 10 
or more cents, but the latter is much the cheapest 
in the end. 

Now, suppose we have the castings all in hand 
and ready for machine, we naturally take the cylin- 
der first because there is a good deal of work to 
be done on it. Chuck it in the lathe by the 
flange, and face off the opposite flange. Then 
take it out, and turn the other flange out and face 
that. If the cylinder has been well cast, and the 
pattern properly made, there will be about tV of 
an inch to bore out of it. Run one heavy cut 
through it to within tV of the proper size, and see 
if there are any blow-holes in it. If there are, 
and scabby places besides, caused by the core not 
being properly vented, condemn the casting at 

23 



24 SMALL ENGINES AND BOILERS. 

once. Do not try to fill the holes up with lead 
or anything else, for it will be sure to come out 
when steam is let on. A bad casting cannot be 
made sound with putty. If the surfaces are all 
correct, try the bore to see if it is parallel. Some 
lathes bore largest on the outside of a hole and 
some on the inside or bottom ; this is caused by 
the lathe-head (or spindle) not being true with 
the ways, and can be easily cured by putting slips 
of paper on the ways under the lathe-head where 
it is needed to square it with the ways on the bed. 
This should be done before the last cut is taken 
out, and when the bore is verified the last cut 
needed to bring the cylinder to size should be 
made. Do not change the position of the tool 
in any way after taking the cut, but bring it out, 
and let it run through again on a quicker speed 
to scrape the surface over. It must be borne in 
mind that boring a cylinder is a continuous opera- 
tion. The lathe must not be stopped on a cut in 
the middle of the cylinder and started again, for 
that will make a rid^e [ n it. 

Having the cylinder properly bored, counter- 
bore it, as shown by the drawing, tV of an inch 
below the upper end of the steam-port. Do not 
make the mistake that some do, and counterbore 
to the bottom of the steam-port, for that will make 
the piston leak badly. The piston travels to 
within tV of an inch of the cylinder-head, conse- 
quently it travels over the port ; if the upper end 
is counterbored to the bottom of the port that 



SMALL ENGINES AND BOILERS. 25 

takes away the bearing of the piston at a very 
important part. The bottom of the cylinder must 
also be counterbored, and it can easily be done 
from the front end. 

The cylinder-flange must now be turned exter- 
nally to the right size, and the end of the steam- 
chest also faced. It will be seen, page 53, the 
lower head of this cylinder is very small, and where 
it enters the cylinder is only ii inches diameter. 
This hole must of course be bored at the same 
time that the cylinder is ; for the piston-rod goes 
through it, and it must be true with the cylinder- 
bore. While the cylinder is in the chuck, take a 
boring- tool with a square nose about i of an inch 
wide, and trim off the edges of the steam-port 
where it enters the bore. 

In all these operations go slow, but go sure. 
Do not attempt to hurry anything beyond its' 
proper speed. Do not spring the cylinder by screw- 
ing it up hard in the chuck-jaws, and be absolutely 
certain that the chuck is true on its faces, if the 
work bears on the jaws of the chuck. If the chuck 
is not true, trouble will be experienced when the 
engine is put together. The flanges will be out of 
parallelism, and every job done on the lathe will 
be wrong and hard to locate as to the cause of 
the difficulty. 

The bracket on the side for the support of the 
cylinder must be faced off on the bottom side 
before the cylinder is removed from the chuck 
after boring; and, as the cylinder cannot be re- 



26 SMALL ENGINES AND BOILERS. 

volved completely in the lathe, the belt must be 
thrown off, and the face-plate revolved, or oscil- 
lated, by hand, running the tool in as far as possi- 
ble, and chipping and scraping the surface true 
where the lathe-tool does not reach. This detail 
is important, for if it is not well done the cylinder 
will not stand square with the guides without a 
great deal of trouble to make it so. 

Now, having the cylinder bored, faced, and 
turned on its flanges, chuck it so that the valve- 
face is out, and true that up as explained a few 
pages back. Possibly the universal chuck will not 
take the cylinder, owing to the flanges and pro- 
jections being in the way of the jaws, in which 
case it must be chucked on the face-plate, and 
supported by blocks so that it will be firm. If the 
lathe is large enough a small angle-plate can be 
put on the face-plate, and a bolt run through the 
cylinder-bore to hold it. 

The exhaust-nozzle must be similarly dealt with, 
for this has not been cored out by the pattern- 
maker, but has been left solid. The cylinder must 
be chucked with the nozzle-end out, and a drill 
run in as far as it is safe to go, taking care not to 
run into the cylinder walls. There will then be 
left a blank end which has to be drilled and chipped 
out to meet the exhaust-port in the cylinder. This 
can be done after the cylinder is removed from the 
lathe. The size of the exhaust-pipe is % of an inch 
inside, and the nozzle must be threaded for the 
steam fittings of this size. This thread has to be 



SMALL ENGINES AND BOILERS. 



27 



Valve Stem 



cut in the lathe ; a pipe tap will not enter the full 
size, for the hole is not deep enough. The cylin- 
der-heads are straight-away jobs, as to the upper 
one, which is common turning. The lower head 
has the piston-rod running through it, and should 
be chucked with the stuf- 
fing-box in toward the 
face-plate. The hole for 
the rod is then bored, 
and the head faced and 
turned to fit the hole in 
the cylinder-bottom. It 
may then be put on an 
arbor and threaded for 
the stuffing-box gland, 
turned and finished all 
over, and then, taken off 
the arbor, re-chucked, and 
the recess for the packing 
bored out, truing the head 
by the outer flange. 

The steam-chest can 
now be put in the lathe 
and faced off on both 
sides, and turned on the 
end. The stuffing-box is 
screwed into the end of 
the chest, and is more easily made in that way 
than if it were cast on solid. 

It should be said here, that matters should be 
so arranged that all the lathe work can be done 




28 



SMALL ENGINES AND BOILERS. 



at one time, instead of breaking off and going- at 
the other fittings, if dispatch is any object. The 




details will then be ready for fitting and for drill- 
ing without unnecessary delay. 

In fitting on the heads, and all details where 



SMALL ENGINES AND BOILERS. 



29 



bolts go through two parts, both pieces should be 
drilled together. Sometimes clamps have to be 
Employed for this work, in others one or two holes 
san be drilled first, bolts put in of the right size 
and screwed up, then the other holes drilled. 




In selecting drills for tapped holes, take a drill 
that will just fill the screw-die without shake, then 
the thread will be full. For steel it should be a 
trifle larger than for cast-iron or brass, for the 
steel is tough, and taps are apt to break if the 
holes are too small. 



SMALL ENGINES AND BOILERS. 




-Bottom-of-Chest * 



Fig. 8. 



SMALL ENGINES AND BOILERS. 3 1 

In drilling all holes that are blind, that is, are 
not through holes, look out and not go too far ; 
measure the exact depth of the hole, and make 
a slight mark on the drill shank as a cruide in 
drilling. 

In making bolts for studs that are to be screwed 
in get " Bessemer rods," so-called, which is very 
soft machine steel ; never use common iron wire 
for this purpose. Cut all bolts to the right lengths, 
and round the ends over, holding them in the 
chuck while cutting the threads on the ends. 

It is unnecessary to make hexagon nuts nowa- 
days, as they can be had in tool stores down to 
t<t of an inch in diameter. Stove bolts for ordi- 
nary common work, where parts out of sight are 
merely held together, can be bought very cheaply, 
down to i of an inch ; they come in all shapes 
nearly, button head and countersink, and are very 
handy for general work. 

This is also true of machine screws, so-called. 
They come in all sizes, both brass and iron, with 
heads of all shapes, and fit standard size threads ; 
not always do they fit the taps however. 

In the foreofoinor directions, it is understood that 
reference is made to the launch engine, Figs. 1, 
2, and 3, and apply to it wholly ; but in so far as 
general work or execution of work is concerned 
they apply to any other engine, or to any other 
machine which has similar details. It may be 
remarked also, as a truism, that all machine work 
under heavy strains, especially where reciprocal 



32 



SMALL ENGINES AND BOILERS. 



ing, or vibrating-, or high rotary speeds are involved 
must be " iron and iron," so called, as to contact 
of parts. No " liners" or false strips of metal of 
any kind must be interposed, and there must not 
be any false holes either. Every hole drilled in 
two parts that are one part in the end must be 
diametrically opposite the other. Absolute integ- 
rity must prevail or the work is worthless when 
done. 




CHAPTER VI. 

FURTHER DETAILS. 

It will be observed that the frame of the engine 
is squared top and bottom, and this can be done 
by chipping and filing ; but it is wiser to take it to 
a machine shop and have it planed, where such 
facilities exist, for it and the guides must be 
square with each other. 

In this engine, and all small engines in fact, 
the design must be so arranged as to the machine 
work that it is certain to be square without lining 
up. It is impossible to line up small engines of 
3-inch bore and under, for the parts are inacces- 
sible, and ordinary eyes cannot see small devia- 
tions. Moreover, it is not necessary to use lines ; 
squares, for straight plane surfaces at right angles, 
are better. If every surface is true, the parts will 
come together accurately, and the engine will be 
noiseless in action. As a rule, small engines 
" pound" like sewing-machines, and make as 
much noise as type-writers. The reason for this 
is that they are out of truth all over. 

I have been explicit in these directions, perhaps 
diffuse, for the reason that works purporting to 
give directions to make small engines abound, 

33 



34 SMALL ENGINES AND BOILERS. 

and, as a matter of fact, give no directions at all, 
or very superficial ones at best. Skilled work- 
men, of course, know how to do machine work 
correctly, and are aware of the penalties of doing 
it incorrectly ; but as this work is intended for 
amateurs who are not supposed to have great 
experience in all lines, I have thought it better 
to give full directions to produce good results. 
Persons who "know it all" do not buy books; 
it is only those who wish to learn and are willing 
to learn who profit by them. 

To return to the engine work ; we have now 
got our cylinder and its heads out and the steam- 
chest partly finished, and may turn to the piston 
and its rod. The latter is made of machine steel 
and is threaded on both ends ; one where it screws 
into the piston, and one where it screws into the 
cross-head, with a check nut to keep it from turn- 
ing next to the latter. 

These threads must be cut in the lathe and a 
tap made with finer threads than the average ma- 
chine tap for this size hole. The thread should 
be not less than 20, and need not be over 1 inch 
long with just enough taper to start it in square. 
The piston (see page 47), is screwed on the rod 
and the end of the latter riveted over, a hexa- 
gon on the top of the piston being to screw the 
rod into the cross-head. The piston is a mere 
disk without packing, and is made as light as pos- 
sible to keep the engine in balance, for the weight 
is chiefly on top. No packing should be put in 



SMALL ENGINES AND BOILERS. 



-*- 


I 


f 


-i 

i 
i 




Fig. 9. 



36 SMALL ENGINES AND BOILERS. 

small pistons, but they should fit the cylinder 
tightly ; the leakage amounts to little or nothing. 
The piston-rod, and everything else to be turned, 
must have drilled centres in it, and be cut to the 
proper length so that the centres will remain, and 
the piston should be turned all over inside and 
out. It is of cup form, inverted, which makes a 
little more clearance on the under side, a matter 
of no moment. 

The cross-head comes next, Fig. 9, and this is 
made of cast-iron with brass gibs; these last are 
made fast by counter-sunk machine screws tapped 
into the cross-head. No adjustment is required for 
wear, since the surfaces are very large for an en- 
gine of the size, but when needed pieces of paper 
can be placed between the gib and cross-head. It 
works closely, but freely in the guides, so that 
there is no lost motion. The cross-head can be 
wholly made in the lathe, the faces of the jaws 
being faced parallel by centring them, and put- 
ting them between the centres, or by putting the 
cross-head upon the face-plate ; the ends being 
turned true it is chucked and the hole for the rod 
drilled and tapped. The wrist-pin hole is then 
bored, and the job is complete except finishing, 
and drilling and tapping the holes for the gib- 
screws ; these last should be of brass. 

All the pins, cross-head, and crank, and those 
for the link motion, should be made of steel, and 
carefully turned to standard sizes to fit reamers 
or reamed holes. 



SMALL ENGINES AND BOILERS. 



37 




Fig. io. 



38 SMALL ENGINES AND BOILERS. 

The crank-pin should have a I hole bored 
through it to lighten it up, and it must be a driv- 
ing fit in the crank-eye. When put in the crank- 
eye is to be heated a little so as to expand it, the 
pin inserted, and riveted over afterward ; the shaft 
is also of machine steel finished all over. 

The connecting-rod is forged of steel in one 
piece, and has a lug on one side for a binding- 
screw to take up slight wear. In all high-speed 
engines everything must be as simple and as solid 
as possible to avoid their working loose. The 
crank-pin brass is therefore made in one piece 
like a bush, driven in to the connecting-rod end 
and slotted ; the distance-piece between the lugs 
goes through this slot, and the screw holds all fast. 
The bush is then reamed to size ; and the rod is 
attached by slipping it over the pin, the nut and 
washer on the end making all secure. 

Now, in boring the crank-pin and shaft-holes in 
the crank itself, the greatest care must be taken 
to have them absolutely true and square. This 
is one of the most important jobs about the en- 
gine ; and if it is not rightly done the engine will 
never work smoothly, and the error can never be 
remedied without a new crank. The way to do 
this job is as follows: — 

See that the face-plate is absolutely true before 
beginning it, and do not allow the least imper- 
fection in truth to exist. Then bore the shaft 
hole, and face the crank true all over. Then, hav- 
ing laid out its length from centre to centre pre- 



SMALL ENGINES AND BOILERS. 



39 




Fig. x;< 






4Q 



SMALL ENGINES AND BOILERS. 



viously, reverse the crank and put the face-side 
next to the face-plate, with the crank-eye in the 
centre in position to be drilled, being sure that 
the crank is flat against the face-plate all over. 

I« 1 H4 

T 




The eccentrics are of cast-iron, and can be all 
finished in the lathe without any trouble at all. 
Chuck them true, and face them off both sides, 
then bore the hole on one side for the shaft. 



CHAPTER VII. 

We must now consider the link and its con- 
nections ; and in this job the amateur will have an 
opportunity to show his ability or the want of it, 
for it is a very important detail. It must work 
freely in all parts, and yet have no lost motions ; 
the link-block must bear squarely on both faces 
of the link, fit closely, and slide easily ; the pins 
in the lugs must be a tight fit without binding, 
and the whole, though made of many pieces, be 
as if it was in one piece. The first thing to be 
done is to face both sides in the lathe to an equal 
thickness, then lay off the radius or curve of the 
link to the size marked on the drawing and then 
the several holes. These, and all other holes 
drilled, must be standard sizes, and allowance of e 1 ? 
made for reaming them. After the holes are 
reamed they must be lapped out, as it is called, 
in order to obtain a perfect surface ; for these bear- 
ings have a great deal of work to do. 

Lapping is accomplished in this instance by 
casting a piece of lead 1 inch in diameter and 3 
inches long ; put it in the chuck, and turn one end 
to the size of the hole, and about 1 inch long. 
Then apply oil and the finest flour emery or cro- 
cus, and polish the interior as smooth as possible. 

41 



42 



SMALL ENGINES AND BOILERS. 



Run the lathe on the highest speed, and keep the 
work moving back and forth, turning it all the 
while. When the pins that go in the hole are 
fitted they should be similarly treated, so that they 




*M-^S-~---~-- 



1 



u 



will be perfectly smooth and true, and without the 
least shake in the hole. 

It will be observed that there are two wrought- 
iron jaws on the eccentric-rods that engage with 
the links; these are too small to forge, and the 
best way to make them is to get a piece of square 



SMALL ENGINES AND BOILERS. 



43 



iron forged to size of both jaws, and then drill the 
slot as shown in the sketch. This makes it handy 
to turn the ends, and drill the holes for the taps ; 
and both jaws are exactly alike then, the drilled 



Cut I here 





slot being, of course, cut out square and filed true, 
the jaws being separated afterward by dividing 
into two parts. 

The link-block should be made of hard brass, 



44 SMALL ENGINES AND BOILERS. 

well hammered before tooling to condense it, and 
it must fit the slot in the link accurately. To do 
this it will be necessary to use a scraper, for no 
files can be used on small high places. 

In drilling the holes for the steam-chest bolts, 
great care must be taken also. Drill the chest 
first, then put it on the cylinder, and drill two holes 
on opposite ends through the chest-holes in the 
flange, or steam-chest seat, on the cylinder; tap 
these holes out, and screw the bolts that belong 
in them down hard. Then drill the rest of the 
holes through the chest into the flange ; it is only 
necessary to drill far enough to mark the position 
of the holes accurately, using a drill the full size 
of the hole in the chest and afterward substituting 
the drill for the tap. If this is properly done, every 
bolt will go in square and true ; if it is not prop- 
erly done, much trouble will be found in getting 
the bolts in. The cover can be drilled in the 
same way. 

These instructions seem to an expert workman 
vinnecessary ; but they are not to amateurs, to whom 
this book is addressed ; it is from the small things, 
apparently small, that great annoyances and extra 
work arises if they are not properly executed. 

The valve should also be of hard brass ; put in 
the vice, and face it off to the proper length as 
shown by the drawing, being careful to keep the 
ends or port faces of the same length from the 
exhaust-port. Measure this cavity, and see if it 
is as wide as the inside edges of the ports on the 



SMALL ENGINES AND BOILERS. 



45 




Fig. 12. 



46 SMALL ENGINES AND BOILERS. 

cylinder, as per diagram, having, of course, dressed 
out the cylinder ports with file and chisel so that 
they are square and true ; then put the valve in 
the chuck and square the working face true. 
When this is done try the face-plate on the cyl- 
inder and dress it fair, and do the same by the 
valve, scraping both to an accurate fit. No emery 
must be used on this job, as it will run down into 
the ports and be blown into the cylinder when the 
engine is put to work. The nut on the valve-stem 
which drives the valve must fit the lugs on the 
back closely, yet not stiff enough to cock the 
valve when it is driven back and forth at high 
speed. 

The piston-rod must be carefully turned and 
threaded for both the cross-head and the piston, 
and the latter must be screwed on hard to its seat, 
the rod riveted over, and both put in the centres 
and finished to size, the rod being draw-filed at the 
last operation. 

Do not make any mistake about this job, such 
as thinking it will make no difference if the lathe 
centres run out a little bit. It will make the great- 
est difference, — a fraction of an inch, a very small 
one, of error will make parts bind when they are 
assembled, and it will be hard to discover where 
the bind is. Absolute truth in work is of the first 
importance, then there will be no binding ; and no 
fussing with files in the wrong place when assem- 
bling. 

The shaft should be turned to the proper size 



SMALL ENGINES AND BOILERS. 



47 



and finished all over, the crank-end being left the 
thickness of a piece of letter-paper larger than the 
bore of it. The crank should then be heated 




slig 



htly, enough to expand it, and the crank 
slipped on ; when it is cold it will be solid in its 
place, but a quarter-inch hole should be drilled at 
the junction of the crank and shaft and a steel pin 



48 SMALL ENGINES AND BOILERS. 

driven in tightly. This pin must be turned to fit, 
or it will work out when running. 

Now suppose that all the parts are finished and 
ready to put together. The first thing to be done 
is to set the cross-head between the guides in 
the centre of them, measure top and bottom, and 
screw the frame up solidly on it with a couple of 
clamps, one on each side, being careful not to 
spring the frame, and being sure to screw up 
fairly on both sides. Observe also that the top 
and bottom of both frames bear fairly, as shown 
on a straight edge held across them and that they 
are square sidewise with the cross-head. It might 
be thought that the cross-head would prevent any 
distortion of surfaces by reason of its long bear- 
ings and its width ; but this is not the case, and 
every operation must be verified before proceeding 
to the next one. 






CHAPTER VIII. 

Having the frame square and true in its place, 
set the cylinder in its place, with the bottom head 
on, and put in the piston and rod. See if the rod 
enters the cross-head fairly, and screws down in it 
easily without any bind or twist. Then examine 
the position of the cylinder with regard to the 
brackets and their bearing upon the head of the 
frame. A very slight coating of red paint on 
the under side of the brackets should be used, and 
the cylinder moved, or twisted a little sidewise, 
when the actual bearings will be shown. These 
last must be iron and iron, each part setting 
squarely on the other ; if this is not done when 
the bolts are put in and screwed up there will be 
great distortion of the parts, and the cylinder will 
be thrown out of line with the guides. The noise- 
less action of the engine depends upon the ac- 
curacy with which the work is done. No liners, 
pieces of tin or brass, must be put in between the 
brackets and frame ; all must be in actual contact. 
It is now in order to set the cylinder and frame on 
the bed-plate where it belongs, the holes having 
been previously drilled in the lugs on the bottom 
for the bolts. The frame must be carefully cen- 
tred with a centre-line, drawn on the bed-plate 

49 



50 



SMALL ENGINES AND BOILERS. 



where the centre of the shaft comes, so that the 
crank will revolve equally, and the crank-shaft and 
pillow-block set in place to square by, or from. 




Bed Plate, 3" x 4". 



When this is done, take a sharp scriber and mark 
through the holes in the lugs onto the bed-plate 
to locate the holes. This must be very carefully 






SMALL ENGINES AND BOILERS. 5 1 

done indeed, and is a job for an expert mechanic, 
for there is no alteration possible after the holes 
are drilled. They must be reamed for turned bolts 
and no oblong, filed-out-on-one-side holes will 
answer. Unless the workman is absolutely certain 
of his ability to do this work properly, he should 
take the job to a shop where there are good work- 
men, and then watch the good workmen. 

This holds good with the holes for the pillow- 
block also, every detail must be square and true 
with every other detail ; when it is so the builder 
can turn his back on the engine at work and not 
know that there is one in the vicinity. The 
holes in the brackets on the cylinder must have 
been drilled prior to setting it in place ; when it 
is finally adjusted, so that the cross-head works 
properly in the guides, put clamps on the brack- 
ets and frame so as to hold it firmly ; then try the 
cross-head again to see if the cylinder has been 
shifted during the operation, then drill the frame 
through the holes in the bracket ; and when the 
bolts are put in everything will be solid iron and 
iron, and the engine will be in line all over. 

There are difficulties connected with drilling 
these holes just named in a lathe ; on account of 
the size and shape of the parts they cannot be 
brought to the drill readily; where this is the 
case the job must be taken to a machine-shop 
where there is an upright drill-press, 



CHAPTER IX. 

This engine, if constructed according to the 
drawings furnished (not mere designs, but work- 
ing drawings from which an engine has been 
made), will deliver 5 -horse-power easily at 800 
revolutions per minute with 150 pounds steam- 
pressure ; even more than that, but this is a fair 
average. Such an engine will drive a 2 5 -foot 
boat by 5 feet beam, or width, 8 miles an hour, 
carrying 20 persons, or it will drive a small machine 
shop with several lathes, drills, and other tools 
in it. 

If it is not desired to build so large an engine, 
the amateur can exactly halve the proportions all 
through and make a very neat model. This would 
give a cylinder 1^ inches diameter by 2 inches 
stroke ; and the link motion can be omitted, using 
instead of it a single eccentric, with no reverse 
motion, directly connected to the valve-stem. 

If a horizontal engine is preferred, a design for 
the cylinder of it, ih inches by 3 inches is given 
(page 58) ; the other proportions used in the ver- 
tical engine will also answer for this engine. 
Changing the position of the cylinder makes no 
difference in the sizes. 

No bolts need be made for these engines unless 

52 



SMALL ENGINES AND BOILERS. 



53 




i i *— 0~" 



346- >! 




54 



SMALL ENGINES AND BOILERS. 



they are under £■ of an inch, for machine screws are 
so universally used that they can be had of all sizes 
in any tool store; the same is true of nuts. Bicycle 
parts, or nuts at all events, can be had nickel- 
plated, if needed, down to J of an inch in size. 

The crank-pin connection shown in the details 
of the 3 -inch cylinder is so made from the fact 
that the rotative speed is high, and it is necessary 
to avoid all parts that are liable to get loose, but 
another form of connection which admits of greater 




adjustment is here shown which requires careful 
attention to make it properly. It is commonly 
used upon large vessels. For those who cannot 
get forgings made a connecting-rod made in part 
of steel, or iron rods, is given. 

Referring to small parts suppose it is necessary 
to have a check-valve for a small boiler, the 
water-passage being not larger than | of an inch. 
Then get a brass rod \ inch in diameter and I 
long, and put it in the chuck. Drill a A hole 
in it | deep, then drill a \ hole through it. The 



SMALL ENGINES AND BOILERS. 55 

larger hole must be drilled first, for its bevel forms 
the valve-seat, and being held steadily makes the 
seat true and without chatters. Now take a small 
tool and enlarge the A hole to I just around the 
seat where the valve comes. This leaves a cham- 
ber inside, and the thread for the cap or pipe- 
connection to the valve-chamber is to be cut on 
this with a chaser. In the end of the cap which 
is screwed into the valve-chamber a hole 1th in 
diameter is to be drilled for the end of the valve 
spindle as a guide, and the valve is made from 
a brass rod, in an obvious way, ground to its seat. 
Cocks are made in the same way from brass rod 
large enough for the job, or from small castings. 
Small pipes of any thickness metal can be had 
from pencil-case makers who draw tubing of £% 
bore if needed. These are silver soldered, and 
tight against ordinary pressures. They cost very 
little. 

It must be borne in mind that simply turning 
or boring objects or details to size does not imply 
that they fit each other, for in most cases they do 
not. Fitting means that the several details are in 
absolute contact over their whole surfaces ; a very 
different matter from merely filling holes without 
shaking. It is not so easy to fit a round pin to a 
round hole when they are of small diameter, either 
by turning or filing, and the only quick and sure 
way is to grind the parts together. To do this 
well requires experience and patience ; it is not 
a job that can be forced or driven but must go 



56 SMALL ENGINES AND BOILERS. 

naturally along through regular stages. The 
holes are, we will say, I inch in diameter ; now 
having drilled them closely to the size, take a 
reamer and ream them out, which will make them 
cylindrical at least. Then turn the pins full to 
the size, so they will push in tightly, and then 
apply oil and floated crocus to the surface, rotat- 
ing the work and drawing the pin in and out 
during the operation. This is very soon done, 
and the time taken is well expended if a fine job 
is required ; but the work must be thoroughly 
washed when completed, so that none of the 
grinding material remains on it. 

Another method of fitting is to scrape the sun 
faces so that they are in contact, and for an 
amateur this is far easier than it is to file them. 
Scrapers are of two forms practically, a flat nose 
and a triangular point, made by grinding a saw- 
file slightly convex on the point ; also a diamond- 
point hand-tool can be used to good advantage. 
The main brasses of the engine, shown in previous 
chapters, are bored to size but they must be fitted 
to the shaft bearing carefully, so that they will not 
heat or pound at high speeds. They are bored 
together in the pillow-block they go in, and each 
half must then be taken out and tried on the shaft 
with a very slight coating of red-lead on the 
journal; by rubbing the brass on this it will be 
seen that they are very far from fitting, even 
though the bore is apparently smooth and true. 
All the inaccuracies must be taken out by scrap- 



SMALL ENGINES AND BOILERS. 57 

ing. The same course must be followed with the 
valve and seat. 

Amateurs may use a return-crank motion to 
drive the slide-valve instead of an eccentric, for 
in some places it is very convenient. A return- 
crank is shown in Fig. 6, and is very simple to 
make ; but it must be used with a valve without 
lap, as it can only have a very small lead or open- 
ing, as will be seen from its construction and prin- 
ciple. The stroke of the valve can be materially 
changed by moving the shaft end of the return- 
crank to or from the centre of it, but the lead 
remains practically the same. For a small hori- 
zontal engine the return-crank is very satisfactory. 

The design herewith is similar to that of the 
Corliss engine with the exception of the valve, 
which is a slide. The cylinder bolts directly onto 
the end of the frame; and the pillow-block and 
guides are bolted to the bed-plate by screws, as 
shown. The guide is a tubular casting, bored and 
reamed true in the lathe, and faced and turned 
true on one end before removing it from the 
chuck. This end fits the cylinder and forms the 
front head, so that when the parts are put together 
there is no lining up to be done, and the cylinder 
is absolutely in line with the guides. After the 
guides are bored they are cut open by drilling 
along the central line, and on the edges of the cut 
a brass rod slotted or sawed for its whole length 
is fitted. This hides the raw edge and makes a 
neat finish ; or an iron rod can be used if preferred. 



CHAPTER X. 

ONE-HORSE POWER HORIZONTAL ENGINE. 

In this example of a horizontal engine all the 
work can be done on a lathe, which is a matter of 
some importance to an amateur without facilities 
for planing ; filing true surfaces of any extent is 
also a tedious and sometimes an unsatisfactory 
job ; in this engine the cylinder, valve-face, steam- 
chest, and guides are all completed in the lathe, 
and the guides are accurately centred in place, 
so that there is no lining up to be done to make 
them come exactly true. The cross-head is also 
turned in the lathe and, in a few words, the fitting 
and vice work is reduced to a very small quantity. 
Any amateur who is a fair lathe-hand can make a 
nice piece of work out of this design. 

It is proper to make a few remarks here about 
the power of these small engines. As generally 
made they are mere toys, of no value except to 
look at a few times and are then thrown aside ; 
but this is not the case with the example shown. 
The reason for the inutility of small engines is 
that they are not designed to do any work, but 
are hastily thrown together, with inadequate bear- 
ings and wearing surfaces ; they speedily work 

58 



SMALL ENGINES AND BOILERS. 



59 




s 



6o 



SMALL ENGINES AND BOILERS. 





PI 


-d 




A 


3 






.s 






2 


Tt 






M 






bi> 






••-« 


0/1 




fa 






SMALL ENGINES AND BOILERS. 6 1 

loose all over and are mere rattle-traps and eye- 
sores to mechanics. The boilers used with them 
are of no value either, and are incapable of gen- 
erating steam enough at high pressures to do any 
work. With the boiler shown (of the vertical 
type) this horizontal engine will easily deliver ii- 
horse power at 600 revolutions per minute and 
100 pounds steam pressure ; and it will do good 
service for years if properly managed, notwith- 
standing that the piston is only ii inches in di- 
ameter. A small piston running at high speed 
with reasonable pressure (not under 75 or 100 
pounds) will do a good deal of work ; the author 
has in mind one of 2\ inch cylinder by 6-inch 
stroke which, with only 40 pounds steam pressure, 
runs a small wagon-maker's shop, having lathe, 
drill press, and bolt-cutting machines. The cost 
for fuel is nothing, while the advantage of having 
power at hand enables men with small shops to 
earn a good deal more than they could with hand 
labor alone. 

In this horizontal engine all the bearings are 
larger than strict proportions require, but that is 
an error on the right side, and, while it is not 
contended that this engine is fitted to drive a 
small shop, unless it be for amateur work, it has 
the ability to do so on occasion if required. It 
will readily drive a 16-inch engine lathe, or a bolt- 
cutting machine up to i-inch diameter of bolt. 

Referring to the engine itself patterns will 
have to be made for all the cast-metal details ; 



62 



SMALL ENGINES AND BOILERS* 



T1 

/T| > 



<6 



& 



\m 



■m 



is. 



as* 



p 



Fig. 15. Bed-Plate of Horizontal Engine. 



SMALL ENGINES AND BOILERS. 63 

having these the execution of the work can pro- 
ceed rapidly. In all jobs of this character the 
object sought is to do as little useless work, or 
re-handling as possible. All the lathe-work on 
the cylinder should be done in sequence, as far 
as it can be ; not a part at one time and another 
subsequently. The cylinder, in this case, has no 
ports cast in it, they being too small for handling 
for the average moulder ; they must, therefore, be 
drilled in, as shown in the drawings. 

To do this put the cylinder in the vice and 
roughly dress off the valve-face so that lines will 
show on it. Get a piece of blue-stone, so called, 
wet it and rub it over the valve-face ; this, when 
dry, leaves a deposit of copper on the face of the 
work so that lines will show clearly on it ; then 
lay off the ports as per drawing. Having done 
this get a drill 3V smaller than the finished width 
of the part and drill down to the depth shown 
on the drawing, leaving but little metal between 
the holes as shown. Then, having previously 
laid off the ports on the ends of the cylinder, drill 
through to meet the holes in the valve-face ; when 
all the holes are drilled, make a drift, or square- 
ended chisel, and drive out the metal between the 
holes. This operation requires care to make it 
successful and there should be several drifts, each 
a little wider than the rest, so that no great 
amount of metal is removed at one cut. The end 
of the port where it comes against the cylinder- 
head is to be cut down to the bore, thus establish- 



6 4 



SMALL ENGINES AND BOILERS. 








Fig. 1 6. Valve Gear of Horizontal Engine. 



SMALL ENGINES AND BOILERS. 



65 



ing connection to the piston. There is ample 
metal left in the bore to do this work, but ama- 
teurs must be careful not to drill too far, or so 




Fig. 17. 



that the point of the drill would penetrate the 
bore when it is completed. Cutting the ports 
must be done first, so that subsequent operations 
will not injure the faces. 



66 SMALL ENGINES AND BOILERS. 

If this job is got through with properly, chuck 
the cylinder and face off the back end of it ; then 
turn it end for end, and face the other end, and 
square the flanges where the guides come. This 
should not be done to dimension at first, but 
merely to get the heaviest part of the stock off. 
Then run a cut through the cylinder and bore it 
within ^ of the size. Very few amateur lathes will 
bore a true, parallel hole of any length, so it will 
be necessary to make a bit to do this properly. 
This bit is merely a reamer, and it leaves the bore 
absolutely true and parallel. The engraving shows 
the bit. It is merely - — in its simplest form — a 
wooden stock with a steel cutter inserted in it, and 
as amateurs have little use for special tools, it is 
made as shown to meet their needs. Take a piece 
of any close-grained wood, maple or beech, about 6 
or 8 inches long, and turn it as shown ; make a saw- 
cut the whole length of the boss, down to the centre, 
and insert a piece of sheet-steel tV of an inch thick. 
This must be filed off to the surface of the wood, 
and backed off so that it will form a cutter; harden 
the steel to a violet-blue and, having started a cut 
in the bore of the right size for \ of an inch, put 
in the reamer or bit and feed up on the tail-stock 
screw. This will make a true bore as smooth as 
a looking-glass ; there is no occasion to counter- 
bore this small cylinder, the heads fit right to the 
bore. The flange and guide-seat are now to be 
squared as the last thing, just scraped, so as to 
bring them true with the bore, and the outside of 



SMALL ENGINES AND BOILERS. 6 J 

the flange turned. It is well to be very careful on 
this operation, for if the tool catches in running it 
in or out, or in setting it, and the cylinder is shifted, 
trouble will ensue ; it can never be set exactly true 
again, the only resource is to put the cylinder on 
an arbor, or mandrel, and square it in that way. 

We have now to deal with the valve-seat and 
steam-chest flanges, and to do this the cylinder 
must be chucked so as to bring the valve-face in 
the right position ; or the valve-face can be trued 
by putting a piece of iron in the exhaust-port for 
a centre, and another centre in the foot, or leg, on 
the cylinder, to sustain it; this is much the easiest 
way for an amateur and the quickest also ; but in 
truing the bottom of the cylinder bearing, or foot, 
care should be taken that the bore is exactly at 
right angles with it. To attain this put a piece of 
wood across the bore and mark the exact centre 
of the cylinder on it ; then swing the cylinder 
against a fine-pointed tool in the tool-post and 
centre it exactly ; be very careful in maintaining 
the centres exactly while turning the flanges on 
the valve-chest and the foot, for if the latter is not 
square with the bore the cylinder will cock up in 
front, or at the back, and the bearing on the end 
of the guide where it is fastened to the bed-plate 
will be a good deal out of the way ; the thickness 
of a piece of thin paper, even, on the cylinder- 
foot, will throw the guide-foot off over T V of an 
inch. 

In squaring the flanges for the steam-chest seat 



68 SMALL ENGINES AND BOILERS. 

and the valve-face it .will be noticed that the latter 
is T V of an inch higher than the former j the ports 
must be stopped with wood so that the tool will 
not dodge into them and mar the edges. 

Having the cylinder all dressed up in good 
shape the steam-chest is to be taken in hand and 
faced up. This can be done easily and quickly in 
the chuck, and the whole work done without re- 
moving it. Catch the chest by the outside of the 
chuck-jaws in the bore of the chest (there is no 
need to bore the chest inside) and turn it all over 
outside and square the faces ; before removing it 
from the chuck put a little fine emery on the face 
and hold the cylinder up to it on a fast speed ; 
this will grind both faces steam tight so that it will 
not require a joint. 

Mark this face and the cylinder-flange with a 
small centre-punch so that it can be put on its own 
face when assembling. Now take the steam-chest 
cover and finish it up all over and grind it to the 
steam-chest also ; while it is in the chuck scribe 
a fine line on the face where the bolt holes are to 
come, so that they will all be central. Do not 
drill any hole in the chest-cover for an oil-cup, 
none is needed. It will be seen that the valve- 
stem stuffing-box screws into the chest, so that 
the latter can be turned all over. 

Now take the guide in hand and bore it out 
with the same bit that was used on the cylinder, 
for both are of the same size ; then put it on an 
arbor (a wooden one will answer if it has metal 



SMALL ENGINES AND BOILERS. 69 

centres), and square up the flanges where they go 
on the cylinder, and also the front end of the 
euide ; it will serve to show whether the whole 
sets square on the bed-plate by using a try square 
on the bed-plate in assembling. 

It will be observed that the guide-flanges are 
checked on the cylinder-flange, but the engraving 
is so small that it doesn't show very plainly. 
This is done to centre the guide with the bore, so 
that when set on its seat, there will be no adjust- 
ment required of any kind. The foot, or leg, on 
the front end of the guide will have to be dressed 
square in the vise, as it cannot be got at in the 
lathe. Set up all the parts together, cylinder and 
guide, and then put it on the bed-plate before 
taking anything off of it, and do not drill the holes 
in the cylinder-flange of the guide-bearing ; the 
guide-flanges should be drilled. When it is found 
that both the feet are square on the bed-plate, 
then the holes in the cylinder-flange can be 
marked off carefully and drilled ; without this pre- 
caution the cylinder and guide-flanges might be 
set on a cock-bill. 

Now let us take the crank-disk in hand ; this, 
also, will require careful work. Turn the face 
outside and on the edge, all over, then put the 
face side next the face-plate, and bore the shaft- 
hole, and face the hub at the same time. Then 
lay off the crank-pin hole by scribing the centre 
of it with a sharp-pointed tool exactly i| inches 
from the centre of the shaft. Remove the disk 



7o 



SMALL ENGINES AND BOILERS. 




Fig. 1 8. 



SMALL ENGINES AND BOILERS. 7 1 

and lay out a f hole on this centre, and centre it 
on the face-plate so that it is ready for boring. 

Much depends on the integrity of this job ; for 
if the crank-pin is not absolutely square with the 
shaft, the engine will never work silently. The 
crank-pin being out of square throws the connect- 
ing-rod twice the amount of the untruth in a 
revolution, and that, in turn, lifts or twists the 
cross-head in the guides, a result that can never be 
remedied in any way except by making a new 
crank. In fitting the shaft to the hub leave it a 
trifle larger than the hub, the merest shade that 
can be felt, or so it will barely enter the hub, then 
heat the latter enough to expand it, and put the 
shaft in and let it cool ; the shrinkage will hold it 
securely, but there is a steel pin driven in, as 
shown, to make sure. After the crank is shrunk 
on in place, turn all the bearings and finish the 
shaft to size, but do not turn it end for end in the 
centres ; if these last run out a little bit, the bear- 
ings will be out of truth w T ith each other, the axes 
will not coincide ; the crank-face and rim should 
also be turned up and polished at the same time. 
The crank-pin should be a driving fit and riveted 
over on the crank-hub ; turn that end of the pin 
slightly hollow so as to leave a raised rim all 
round it ; by flattening this down on the crank, 
very little hammering will be needed to make the 
pin tight. 

The pillow-block brasses are to be fitted in and 
then bored to size, after which they are to be 



72 



SMALL ENGINES AND BOILERS. 



squared on a mandrel while in the block. Here 
is where an angle-plate comes in very aptly on a 
lathe, for by squaring the base of the pillow-block 




cyJ 



V\ 




in the vise, or between the centres (which is the 
better way) , the brass can be set on the angle-plate 
and the brasses bored exactly to the distance 
marked without using a mandrel, 



SMALL ENGINES AND BOILERS. 



73 





q; 


J-HS 




N ! " 


r * 




1^ 






1jf 

1 




■© 


1 




B 


i 




hn 






c 






^) 






E 


i 







1 




a 








Fig. 20. 



74 SMALL ENGINES AND BOILERS. 

The eccentric can be faced on both sides, 
turned on its diameter for the straps, and after- 
ward shifted on one side I of an inch to bore the 
shaft-hole. The straps should be cast in two parts, 
faced on the lugs, then soldered together, and 
the bolt-holes drilled the size of the tap-hole, en- 
larging the other strap-hole subsequently ; the 
straps are to be bored when soldered, and after- 
ward melted apart. The hole for the eccentric- 
rod can be drilled and tapped better when the 
straps are asunder. 

The valve can be faced in the chuck, although 
it is so small that it is just as easy to dress it in 
the vise ; it should not be ground to the valve- 
face, but scraped to a true bearing. The valve 
gearing, rocker-arms, etc., require no explanation ; 
they are all of steel, and the arms are made as 
shown in the diagram on page 75 ; take a piece 
of round machinery steel large enough for the 
job and turn it up, as shown, to the outer dimen- 
sions of the arm. Then file it off — while still in 
the chuck — on opposite sides for the hubs. Do 
not cut it off of the piece, but take it out of the 
chuck, and drill the holes for the shafts through 
the hub and for the pin ; having done this and 
found out that the holes are parallel with each 
other (by putting tight-fitting rods through them 
and squinting across them), cut the arm off the 
piece, put it on a small mandrel and square the 
hubs true ; the body of the arm can also be 
turned flat for a short distance as a guide to filing 



SMALL ENGINES AND BOILERS. 





75 




Fig. 21. 



76 SMALL ENGINES AND BOILERS. 

it later. Very small details can be made in this 
way accurately which could not be readily handled 
in any other way, neither caught in a vice or held 
so as to shape them. 

Now in drilling the holes for the steam-chest 
and cylinder covers a word of caution will not be 
amiss. Nothing causes more annoyance when 
assembling than holes that do not come fair, and 
tapped holes that will not admit the bolts because 
they do not coincide. It is easy to avoid this 
trouble by following this plan : select the drill 
to be used for the taps and drill the holes with 
that first, clear through as far as it is to go, then 
enlarge the holes the bolt is to pass through 
afterward ; by doing this the bolts will enter fair 
every time, and the bodies will be a snug fit to 
the holes. Lay the holes off in the steam- chest 
cover and the cylinder covers of this engine ac- 
curately and mark the centres ; then drill two 
holes on opposite sides and tap them for the 
bolts. Put the parts together and screw them up 
tight ; then drill all the other holes clear through, 
as they are to be when complete. 

In turning the piston see that it is a snug fit to 
the cylinder ; there is no packing in it, for none is 
needed ; but the piston must fit closely and yet 
run free. The centres in the piston-rod must 
be left in, and also in every piece that is turned, 
and they must, in all cases, be drilled. No 
centre-punch centres should ever be used for 
anything. 



SMALL ENGINES AND BOILERS. 



77 



It is proper to here call the amateur's attention 
to a method of finishing small cylindrical castings 
where a scroll chuck is not available. In this case 
a wooden chuck is made and bolted on the face- 




Fig. 21. 
plate ; it is then turned out so that the 
will drive in tightly, the edges of the casting, or 
flanges, being turned when on the cylinder. 



casting 



7* 



SMALL ENGINES AND BOILERS. 




Fig. 22. 



SMALL ENGINES AND BOILERS. 



79 



The connecting-rod is a simple job, but the pin- 
holes will have to be bored on a lathe which will 
swing the rod. This rod is made with solid ends, 
for the reason that the 
engine runs very fast, 
and small details will 
work loose in spite of 
good workmanship. 
The crank end is 
bushed and will run a 
long time without wear 
if the pin is a good job 
when first made ; when 
it gets too slack, it is 
a very simple task to 
put in another bush. 

The cross-head is of 
cast-iron with hard 
brass gibs let into the 
jaws, which are held 
by two bolts in each 
jaw. The cross-head 
can be all squared and 
trued up in the lathe, 
and it should be finally 
turned on its guide 
faces when on the pis- Fig 

ton-rod. This may not 

be possible on some amateur lathes, as it needs 
a steady rest ; lacking this the cross-head can be 
screwed into a short mandrel held in the chuck. 




8o 



SMALL ENGINES AND BOILERS. 



The fly-wheel may seem small to some, but its 
circumferential velocity is high, over 1,200 feet 




Fig. 24. 






per minute at 600 revolutions per minute, but it 
is amply strong to do its work. It is very neces- 
sary that it should be absolutely true at this 



SMALL ENGINES AND BOILERS. 



8l 



speed, and it should be secured by a key sunk in 
the shaft ; this key way must be cut before the 
shaft is finally turned, or the cutting of it will 
make the shaft run untrue. 

This covers all the details of the horizontal 
engine and, as stated in previous lines, it will be 




Fig. 25. 

found wholly satisfactory in action. The method 
of setting* the valve is the same as that shown for 
the vertical engine. 

Now let us consider a few points in regard to 
finishing details which sometimes puzzle amateurs. 
There are parts sometimes which are very thin 



82 



SMALL ENGINES AND BOILERS. 



and have irregular outlines also ; these cannot be 
caught in a vise, but must be treated as shown 




Fig. 26. Fly-Wheel of Horizontal Engine. 



in the engraving. Get a piece of hard wood, 
preferably of the right size, and plane it true on 



SMALL ENGINES AND BOILERS. 83 

one face ; then nail a strip on the back about an 
inch square to catch it in the vise. Take the 
piece to be draw-filed and, laying it on the block, 
drive brads in all around the edge, so as to have 
a wedging or clamping action when driving ; sink 
the heads below the work and there is then a 
flush surface on the work which permits anything 
to be done on it. 

It sometimes happens that an engine will not 
run when steam is turned on, and this has puzzled 
a good many mechanics at times. The cause in 
every case is that the slide-valve is off its seat, or 
cocked in some way by the valve-stem nut bind- 
ing it so that it will not seat square. Sometimes 
it is caused by the gland in the stuffing-box being 
untrue ; whatever the cause it must be removed 
or cured before the engine will work properly, 
and this caution is given to enable those who may 
have any trouble to find and remove it. 




CHAPTER XL 

SETTING THE ECCENTRICS. 

Sometimes persons are puzzled in setting the 
eccentrics of engines, and do not get them in the 
right place on the shaft without a great deal of 
labor; not even then sometimes; but the matter 
is a very simple one, and easily understood. It 
does not take so long to do the work as to tell 
how it should be done. 

An eccentric is merely a disk with its bore 
on one side of its mathematical centre, and has, 
from this fact, an eccentric, or irregular motion ; 
but it has no other peculiarity, or special fitness, 
for opening and closing steam-valves. It is no 
more or less than a continuous or circular crank, 
where crank and pin are combined in one body. 
It is supposed to have, by some, an irregular 
velocity, but this is not correct, for any given 
point in its body moves at a regular speed around 
the shaft, the same as a crank-pin does. 

There is a long side and a short side to an 
eccentric, so to speak, and the side nearest the 
shaft does move more slowly than the long or 
opposite side, but the velocity of the wheel itself 
is regular around the shaft as before stated ; the 

8 4 



SMALL ENGINES AND BOILERS. 



85 




Fig. 27. 



86 SMALL ENGINES AND BOILERS. 

only variation being as it approaches the centre 
or points of no travel, when changing from one 
direction of motion to the other. The idea of 
an irregular motion was doubtless obtained from 
looking at the long side, and at the short side 
alternately. The throw of an eccentric is the 
distance from the centre of the wheel to the 
centre of the shaft that it is on ; the stroke of 
the eccentric is twice the above distance. These 
terms are not the same, and should not be used 
as if they were. The stroke of the eccentric has 
no effect upon the times of the valve action. 
The travel of the valve operated by any given 
eccentric can never be changed after it is once 
constructed ; that is, fixed by the difference or 
distance of the shaft centre from the centre of 
the eccentric itself; it is only the times of the 
travel that can be altered by rotating the eccentric 
around the shaft. 

Let us take an imaginary valve and eccentric 
to explain this more fully. The width of the 
steam-ports is i inch, and the lap is half an inch ; 
the lap added to the width of the port gives the 
throw of the eccentric or its travel in one direction 
to open one port fully ; manifestly, this is the 
throw (distance of the centre of the shaft hole 
from the centre of the eccentric), because in a 
complete revolution the valve travels the same 
distance in the other direction ; it is then said 
to have 3 inches valve travel. 

Having settled these minor points, let us con- 






SMALL ENGINES AND BOILERS. 87 

sider the actual process of setting any given valve, 
slide, piston, poppet, or any other. 

The same processes apply to all, modified only 
by the valve gear ; of this last there are endless 
types, and only those in common use all over are 
alluded to. 

The engine being connected in all parts, it is 
required to know where the eccentric should be 
set to open and close the ports properly. If the 
eccentric-rod is attached directly to the valve- 
stem, the position of the eccentric can be fixed 
at a glance by an engineer of experience ; but first 
he finds out whether the valve runs square as 
it is called, before he attempts to set the eccentric 
itself. If the eno-ine is a small affair the whole of 
the details can be connected together, and the 
shaft revolved ; if the engine is large this last 
cannot be done without much labor and an ex- 
penditure of time which is quite unnecessary. 
For instance : to find the correct length of the 
eccentric-rod. 

Place the valve at mid-stroke, lap equal at both 
ends, and turn the eccentric, not the shaft, up so 
that its longest part is toward the steam-chest, 
whether vertical or horizontal. Npw take the 
eccentric-rod and strap attached, and put the strap 
where it belongs, noting the position of the con- 
nection to the valve-stem and that on the eccen- 
tric-rod ; mark the difference, and then turn the 
eccentric in the opposite direction and see where 
it comes on that side. If the eccentric-rod travels 



88 SMALL ENGINES AND BOILERS. 

equally on each side of the centre of the valve- 
stem connection the eccentric-rod is of the proper 
length ; if it does not travel equally shorten the 
valve half of the difference only until it shows 
true. When the valve throws square set the eccen- 
tric (to make the matter simple) , as in the diagram, 
and revolve the shaft only ; there is no occasion 
to drag a heavy piston and connecting-rod, with 
their attendant friction, back and forth. If the 
valve has too much opening (lead) when the 
crank is at the end of the stroke, turn the eccen- 
tric-wheel on the shaft (do not change the valve- 
stem or eccentric-rod length) until the opening 
is equal on both ends. Then the valve is in its 
proper position to mechanically open and close 
the ports ; but its real position for the best results 
must be ascertained by indicator diagrams. Of 
course the reader understands that the crank is 
on its dead centre in all of the above movements. 

The Link Motion. 

The operation just described applies to a com- 
mon, straight connection, and it is modified to 
some extent by rocker arms and the details of the 
valve-gear ; but the operation is practically the 
same in all cases, no matter what the details may 
be. Take the link motion used for reversing, — 
this also has been endowed with purely imaginary 
functions, the link itself being supposed to have 
some part in the operation of the valve when it 
is merely an adjunct to facilitate reversing direc- 



SMALL ENGINES AND BOILERS. 89 

tions of motion ; the link, as its name implies, being 
merely a curved strap to hold two eccentric-rods 
at a given distance from each other, and admit 
of one or the other rod beinor thrown in or out 
of o-ear at will. Erratic motions and actions of 
the link are not caused (or cured either) by change 
of its form, for what is gained in one direction is 
lost in another ; but erratic motions are caused by 
the length of the link itself, the length of the 
eccentric-rods, and the throw of the eccentric. 
This is only another form of saying that if the 
radius of the link, its point of suspension, the 
length of the rods, and the throw of the eccentrics 
are not properly designed in the first instance, 
there will be an erratic motion of the link at one or 
more points in its stroke. Take the radius of the 
link for example : This is conventionally the dis- 
tance from the centre of valve-stem connection 
with valve at mid-stroke to the centre of the shaft ; 
but sometimes if the connections are very short, 
indeed this gives a very awkward link, of short 
curve, — so that the link block binds or works hard ; 
then the link is made of long-er radius than the 
centre of the shaft, or of such proportions that the 
engine will reverse easily. 

If the engine works at full stroke all the time 
this doesn't matter, for the valve can be made to 
work properly at full stroke, regardless of the link 
radius. If, however, it is intended to work ex- 
pansively then difficulties arise at once if the link 
is of an improper radius, for the lead increases or 



9° 



SMALL ENGINES AND BOILERS. 



decreases alarmingly with any shift of the link 
if the rods are straight connected or " open/' as 
it is called. If the rods are crossed then the lead 
decreases toward mid-gear. 

It might be supposed that when the rods are 
of the proper length and the link is of the correct 
radius then there would be no motion of the valve 
with the link in mid-gear, but this is not the case, 
for it will be observed by the diagram that the 
centres of the eccentric wheels and the centre of 
the shaft are not coincident ; so that in a complete 
revolution there is an eccentricity of motion equal 
to half the distance of the variation mentioned, so 
that there will always be a motion of the valve in 
mid-gear independent of the throw of the eccen- 
trics themselves. 

Now as to setting the eccentrics for the link- 
motion on a direct connection, the operation is the 
same as that for the single eccentric, — both eccen- 
tric-rods must be brought to the proper length to 
make the valve travel square before anything else 
is done ; after that the eccentrics are fixed on the 
shaft midway between vertical lines and horizontal 
lines drawn on the shaft, that is to say, about quar- 
ter-stroke, and opposite to the crank-pin, as in the 
diagram. The shaft can then be turned once, a 
complete revolution, to verify the lead, and the job 
is done ; the eccentric will only have to be moved 
a little, one way or the other, to equalize the lead 
or make it unequal, as is often done with large and 
heavy connections, "Midway" is only a- com- 






SMALL ENGINES AND BOILERS. 9 1 

parative expression, for the eccentrics are not 
midway between horizontal and vertical lines, but 
are advanced slightly to make up for the lap and 
lead. 

It will be readily seen that it is a very simple 
task to adjust a link-motion by this method. The 
idea of pinching or barring a heavily connected 
engine with the piston in, and all stuffing-boxes 
packed, is absurd, but it is very frequently done 
by persons who should have thought a little 
further. 

To sum up the whole operation of setting an 
eccentric on a shaft : Get the eccentric-rod of the 
proper length first ; then set the eccentric with 
the longest part at quarter-stroke, and opposite 
the cntnk-pin when the main crank is on the 
centre ; turn the shaft once to equalize the lead, 
and make the eccentric-wheel fast on the shaft. 
If the lap and lead allowances have been correctly 
made, this will bring the eccentric where it should 
be. 

Machine Finish. 

The appearance of mechanical details is greatly 
improved by the character or the finish done upon 
them. Finishing, so-called, is not merely to sur- 
face polish the details, but it comprises, also, the 
workmanship upon them in fitting one part to 
another. Slovenly workmen pay no attention to 
sharp corners, true surfaces before polishing, and 
square corners where they are meant to be square, 



92 SMALL ENGINES AND BOILERS. 

or round corners where they are meant to be round, 
and the result is that, even if the work is well 
designed otherwise, it has the appearance of a 
second-class job. Nothing can be slighted in the 
way of fitting, if it is only upon a small model, if 
an amateur expects credit for or satisfaction in his 
productions. 

As regards surface polish there are many kinds 
of this, each of which has certain values. The 
simplest of them is to produce a true surface by 
files or scrapers without scratches or hollow places 
in it, and then polish with emery cloth of different 
degrees of fineness. This is much easier said than 
done to those who have had no experience, and 
about the first trouble an amateur experiences, 
after he is able to produce a reasonably true 
surface, is in keeping scratches out of his work. 
Scratches are caused by the files " pinning-up" as 
it is termed ; that is, minute particles of metal get- 
ting caught in the teeth of the file and tearing the 
surface of the work. This is very apt to occur 
with fine files, and workmen can tell in a moment, 
with one rub of a file, whether this has happened 
or not; the file should be cleaned at once, and 
chalk rubbed over it, so that the filings will have 
no hold on the file. On wrought metal or steel 
the file should be greased slightly, and cleaned 
with a wire brush occasionally, to keep it cutting. 
When " draw-filing " a finish be careful to keep 
the line of filing and subsequent polishing exactly 
true with the length of the work, not helter-skelter, 



SMALL ENGINES AND BOILERS. $3 

all over it in any direction. For a glazed finish 
use old crocus cloth, which is greasy, and rub it on 
hard and long ; this will give a brilliant polish 
when finally cleaned with chalk and dry rouge, but 
it will also bring out every scratch in the job by 
filling it up with dirt ; so that, unless the amateur 
wishes to have the reproach of " high polish and 
deep scratches " applied to him, he should avoid 
crocus cloth and use flour emery paper for the last 
touches. 

Oil-stone Finish. 

This consists in bringing the work to a true 
plane by filing and scraping, and then going care- 
fully over it in detail with a small oil-stone slip. 
This finish should be mottled and waved in ap- 
pearance at the will or taste of the workman, but 
it is slow work and should be done upon small 
parts only. 

Acid Finish. 

A dead-bright surface can be given to machine 
parts by immersing them a few moments in strong 
nitric acid, and then immediately plunging the 
parts into strong soda water, and carefully wash- 
ing them in clear water until it is certain that the 
acid has been removed. The effect of the job is 
much enhanced by using a scratch brush on them, 
run at high speed in the lathe. This finish is not 
recommended for parts that have to be handled 
much, for it will turn black quickly unless pro- 



94 SMALL ENGINES AND BOILERS* 

tected from the air by shellac — varnish, of trans- 
parent collodion. 

Scraped Finish. 

This consists in bringing the work to a true plane, 
and then mottling the surface with patches scraped 
here and there, but alternating, with some approach 
to regularity. It is chiefly effective upon cast-iron 
surfaces of some area. A finish of more or less 
ornamental appearance, called worm-finish can be 
imparted by putting a pine plug in the chuck and 
turning it true on the end and face. Charge the 
end with flour emery and oil, and then place the 
work against the back spindle and screw up on it, 
moving the work in straight lines or curves as 
desired. This gives a very bright finish of pecul- 
iar aspect, and is frequently used upon watch 
movements. 

Soldering and Brazing. 

A knowledge of this work is very convenient 
to machinists, but difficulty is experienced some- 
times in making a good job. This is because the 
surfaces to be joined and the agent used in doing 
the work, the soldering-iron, so-called, are not 
clean. The surfaces of the work must be abso- 
lutely bright, without a trace of tarnish upon them, 
or the solder will not take. Sand-paper will, in 
a majority of cases, answer to clean the parts, 
but it is sometimes necessary to use files or scrap- 
ers ; but it must be borne in mind that the solder 



SMALL ENGINES AND BOILERS. 95 

will not adhere unless there is a clean surface 
present. For tin the solder will adhere if it is 
clean, with rosin only as a flux; but for brass it'is 
necessary to use a solution called muriate of zinc. 
This is merely clean zinc dissolved in muriatic 
acid ; put zinc cuttings and muriatic acid in a 
bottle, and when it will not bubble or give off 
fames any more the acid is spent, and is then sat- 
urated. Pour it carefully into another clean bottle 
so that no dregs of zinc enter, and fill it up with 
i of its bulk of soft water ; wet the parts with this 
and heat them on a hot plate ; then rub a stick of 
tin over them until they are coated with it, and 
solder in the usual way with a soldering-iron, or 
bind them together with ware, and sweat them 
together as it is called, by heating on a hot plate 
until the solder flows. This solder holds very 
strongly, and pieces of irregular shape which could 
not be otherwise held may be soldered onto the 
face-plate and machined off. Iron, cast or wrought, 
can be tinned by filing it bright or putting it in 
acid, if small, and then heating it on a plate over 
the fire so that no smoke or gas reaches it, and 
then covering the surface with sal-ammoniac ; rub 
tin all over until it melts, and solder in the usual 
way. Common solder is 2 parts tin and i part 
lead by weight. Fine brass jobs which cannot be 
reached by an iron can be joined by dipping the 
surfaces in a strong solution of sal-ammoniac, put- 
ting a strip of tin foil between them, and binding 
them with wire ; heat just enough to flow the tin. 



g6 SMALL ENGINES AND BOILERS 

Silver solder, so-called, is 34 parts weight of sil- 
ver coin and 5 copper. Melt in a clean crucible, 
and when partly cooled. add 4 parts zinc, stirring 
vigorously. If the metal is too hot when the zinc 
is put in it will all burn out. Drop or pellet sol- 
der is made by taking common solder and pouring 
it into cold water, having the solder only hot 
enough to run easily. 

Brazing. 

This process differs from soldering in the na- 
ture of the agent employed to hold the parts to be 
joined. Brazing is accomplished by melting brass 
filings applied directly on the seam and fused in 
it by holding the work over a fire. It requires 
considerable practice to do it successfully, and is 
hardly within the pale of amateur work ; but if any 
one desires to try it, let them scrape the seam sur- 
faces bright, and apply sal-ammoniac and brass 
filings directly to the seam with a small spoon 
made of a copper strip. The work must be moved 
to and fro over a charcoal fire, and when the cop- 
per approaches red-heat, the solder or brass will 
flow into the seam. This reads very simply, but 
whoever undertakes it for the first time will find 
that it is not so easy as it reads. 



CHAPTER XII. 

BOILERS. 

A boiler which will merely hold hot water and 
stand pressure up to 10 pounds can be made of 
tin soldered together like a teakettle, but such a 
boiler is not worth the time spent upon it. It 
is merely a makeshift, and unworthy of any one 
who aspires to be more than a tinker. A boiler 
to be of any use must be of some considerable 
dimensions and thickness of plate ; it must have 
a good fire-box and ample heating surface for the 
work it has to do, and it must be properly propor- 
tioned as well for the fuel used. 

If it is desired merely to run an engine to see 
it in operation under low pressure, the quickest 
made, cheapest, and most compact form of boiler 
is the common cylinder boiler, used with charcoal 
fuel, or arranged for a gasoline burner, such as is 
now sold for melting lead in pots by plumbers. 
This is a cheap fuel, but it is not a particularly 
safe one, for gasoline is treacherous stuff, and 
brooks no careless hands or heads about it. 

A copper boiler, 4 inches diameter by tV thick 
and 12 inches long, will drive (that is run) an en- 
gine with 1 inch diameter of cylinder by i^-inch 

97 



9 8 



SMALL ENGINES AND BOILERS. 




Fig. 28. 



SMALL ENGINES AND BOILERS. 



99 



stroke of piston all day long at 1,000 revolu- 
tions per minute, and maintain a pressure of 50 
pounds if properly arranged as to the heating sur- 




Fig. 28. Boiler Cap. 



face ; but the water must be constantly renewed, 
and to do this some sort of a feeding apparatus 
must be employed ; the simplest to make is a 



IOO SMALL ENGINES AND BOILERS. 

common plunger-pump with two valves, suction, 
and delivery, but a much better and more conve- 
nient form of boiler for amateurs is the vertical 
tubular boiler, as shown in the diagrams. 

This, as will be seen, is easily made by any fairly 
good workman, and has no rivets to bother by 
leaking in inaccessible places, the only ones being 
on the bottom where they can easily be put in. 

The dimensions are given in the diagrams ; the 
total heating surface in the tubes is 7 square feet, 
which with gasoline fuel should give very nearly 
i-horse-power. If a seamless brass tube cannot 
be easily had of the size given, a coppersmith will 
make a copper-tube brazed which is very nearly 
as strong, or, at all events, strong enough for a 
working pressure of 150 pounds. 

The rule to find the bursting pressure of any 
cylindrical shell or tube is, to multiply the thick- 
ness of the metal in parts of an inch by i of the 
tensile strength, and divide by half the diameter 
of the tube. 

For example : the tensile strength of copper is 
(brazed) 30,000 pounds per square inch ; ith of 
this is 7,500 pounds. The copper is ith thick 
(decimal .125). So 7,500 x by .125 =937.5; 
dividing this by half the diameter of the tube, 
6 inches, gives us 156 pounds working pres- 
sure, which is just i of the bursting pressure or 
actual strength of the tube. 

The heads are cast-brass, or may be of copper 
flanged, but brass is easier to cut a thread on than 



SMALL ENGINES AND BOILERS. IOI 

copper, and must be screwed in tight. It will be 
seen that this is a pretty good job for an amateur's 
lathe, which would hardly swing it, and if preferred 
the tube sheets can be riveted in with I copper 
rivets spaced I inch between centres. 

The edges of the tube sheets must be caulked 
tightly after riveting, and a rivet-set used on the 
outside heads to make a neat finish. The tubes 
are I inside, because they are to be expanded in, 
and that is the smallest expander to be had ; they 
will be absolutely tight when rolled, and need 
not be riveted over on the ends ; no steam press- 
ure can draw them out. The dome on top for 
the smoke-stack will require a pattern made for it 
if it is intended to have a neat appearance. The 
gauge-cocks can be bought in brass-goods stores, 
they are called " ith air-valves," and are very small, 
neatly-finished valves, nickle-plated, costing 15 
cents apiece. The feed-pipe enters at the bottom, 
and will require a check-valve close to the shell. 
The . steam-pipe emerges where marked, and 
branches can be taken from it to carry the steam- 
gauge, safety-valve, and whistle if required. 

In drilling- the holes for the tubes in the tube- 
sheets be careful to get exactly the same number 
of tubes in each row of both sheets ; if this is not 
done there will be an odd hole which will have to 
be closed by a plug. 

Made in brass or copper this boiler will cost 
considerable, and it can be made of steel just as 
well, with steel tubes ; but these last are apt to 



102 



SMALL ENGINES AND BOILERS. 




F=K 




Fig. 30* 



SMALL ENGINES AND BOILERS. IO3 

corrode very quickly, and it is better to use brass 
tubes. Any small boiler-shop will make a 12-inch 
steel tube by 16 inches long, by No. 10 wire 
gauge, for a very moderate sum, and the heads 
can be flanged, also, in steel. With this material 
such a boiler can be made very reasonably. 

At 150 pounds pressure and with gasoline fuel, 

— or, if preferred, charcoal or coke used with a 
blast, such as the engine exhausting into the stack, 

— an engine ii-inch cylinder by 3rinch stroke, 
running at 1,000 revolutions per minute should 
deliver 1 horse-power, ample to drive all the tools 
in an amateur's shop, or a model yacht 8 or 10 
feet long, by' 18 inches beam. 

A horizontal boiler can be made which will do 
good work by following the diagram Fig. 30. 
This boiler will require a setting which may be of 
sheet-iron, tV thick, and a breeching, as it is called, 
to go over the internal flue where it emerges from 
the head. This is a cheap boiler to make also, 
as it can be wholly brazed together without a 
rivet in it, and it will carry a high pressure ; but 
it will not do the work that the vertical boiler 
will, because it has very little heating surface for 
its dimensions. These last are, we will say, 16 
inches long by 12 inches diameter, the same as 
the vertical boiler ; but the effective heating sur- 
face is the bottom and the internal flue, altogether 
only 408 square inches, or a little less than 3 
square feet. This would amount to nothing at 
all for power purposes, and would only be useful 



io4 



SMALL ENGINES AND BOILERS. 



as a toy. If, however, we arrange the tubes as in 
the upper figure we can get gh square feet heat- 
ing surface, or about i horse-power. 




Fig. 31. 

A horizontal water-tube boiler is another affair, 
and, in the same space as the horizontal boiler 
just described, will give a great deal of power. 



SMALL ENGINES AND BOILERS. IO5 




M 



> 



& 



-5-Lap-Welded-Pipe-16^-Long- 



26, 1 Lap Welded Tubes 13 Long 



Cap 



J 



Fig. 32' 



106 SMALL ENGINES AND BOILERS. 

There is another advantage in it — that gasoline 
or oil fuel can be used readily. Either of these 
fuels are far better than coal for small boilers. 
The trouble with it is that it does not burn easily 
in a confined space like a small fire-box ; more- 
over it is very dirty, and requires constant super- 
version. With oil there is no trouble or 
annoyance beyond the odor. With gasoline, as 
before explained, great care must be taken to 
have not the slightest leak of the fluid externally, 
or there will be a very dangerous explosion. The 
water-tube boiler is not at all difficult to make, 
and affords an interesting study as to the action. 
It can be either of the horizontal inclined type or 
the vertically inclined type, as desired ; an ama- 
teur can easily make the horizontal water-tube 
type. As will be seen by the engraving the 
generating surfaces comprise a series of tubes 
directly over the fire connected with the steam- 
drum on top. The feed-pipe enters this at the 
bottom and the steam-pipe issues from the top 
of the dome or drum. This last is made of a 
section of lap-welded wrought-iron pipe, and the 
heads are the caps which go on the same and can 
be found in any engineer's store. The tubes are 
lap-welded also, and the connections at the end 
are the malleable iron return-bends also kept in 
stock. The diagram shows how the series (3) 
are connected to each other, each series being 
also connected at the sides by running one of 
the return-bends at right angles, or turned down 



SMALL ENGINES AND BOILERS. 



107 




toward the bottom of the boiler, both sides and ends 
(4 in all) of the series 
must be connected, 
for the steam in the 
lower series has to 
pass through them on 
the way to the drum. 
For a laree boiler this 
would not be a good 
plan, but in this size 
it will answer. This 
boiler has 15 square 
feet of heating surface, 
and ii square feet of 
grate surface, and will 
easily deliver ii horse- 
power. It will burn 
any kind of fuel, wood, 
coal, or coke, and will 
stand 500 pounds per 
square inch. This is 
the advantage that 
water-tube boilers 
have over fire - tube 
boilers ; they can carry 
higher pressure, and 
are much lighter for 

<z> 

equal powers. 

It must be borne 
in mind, if this boiler 



Fig. 33- 



is to carry high pressures, that all screwed fit- 



108 SMALL ENGINES AND BOILERS. 

tings must be thoroughly leaded — that is, cov- 
ered with red-lead putty (made of white lead 
and red lead to a stiff dough) before being made 
up ; and that no pipe or union must be screwed 
together and then taken apart; if this is done 
the joints will leak, for they are stretched much 
larger than the original size. 

The boiler thus far described will answer for all 
purposes amateurs are likely to have, and, while 
some of the parts cannot be made by them for 
want of facilities, they are not expensive to have 
made by workmen. They are in no sense of the 
word toys, to be run with alcohol lamps, but will 
burn coal, wood, or oil fuel when properly man- 
aged. Between merely driving an engine and 
running it for power purposes, there is a great 
difference, and that is where many persons fail 
to get power out of small engines. They have 
no boilers to run them. Commercial engines 
for power purposes can be had in market with 
cylinders of only 2 inches diameter, by 3 inches 
stroke, but they require 150 pounds of steam. 

Vertical submerged tubular boilers are in use 
in some parts of the country as shown (Fig. 33), 
but it is not a desirable boiler for amateurs to 
make, on account of the difficulty in getting the 
tubes in the upper head, and making the whole 
boiler tight. The launch engine 3"x 4" will re- 
quire a boiler of 30 square feet heating surface, 
and is wholly beyond the facilities and experience 
of amateurs to construct. 



CLASSIFIED CATALOGUE OF 

BOOKS ON STEAM, STEAM ENGINES, Etc 

FOR SALE BY 

13. VAN NOSTRAND COMPANY, 
23 Murray and 27 Warren Sts., New York. 



BOILERS. 

Barr. Practical Treatise on High Pressure Steam Boilers, including 
Results of Recent Experimental Tests of Boiler Material, etc. 8vo. Illus- 
trated. Indianapolis, 1893. $3.00 

Barrus. Boiler Tests : Embracing the results of one hundred and thirty- 
seven evaporative tests, made on seventy-one boilers, conducted by the 
author. 8vo. Boston, 1895. $5-oo 

Christie. Chimney Design and Theory. A book for Engineers and Archi- 
tects, containing all data relative to Chimney Designing. Illustrated 
with numerous diagrams and half-tone cuts of many famous chim- 
neys. 8vo, cloth. Illustrated. New York, 1899. $3.00 

Courtney. The Boiler Maker's Assistant in Drawing, Templating, and 
Calculating Boiler Work and Tank Work, with rules for the Evapora- 
tive Power and the Horse Power of Steam Boilers, and the Proportions 
of Safety Valves, and Useful Tables of Rivet Joints of Circles, Weights 
of Metals, etc. Revised and edited by D. K. Clark, C.E. Illustrated. 
London, 1898. (Weale's Series.) $0.80 

The Boiler Maker's Ready Reckoner. With examples of Practical 
Geometry and Templating, for the Use of Platers' Smiths, and Riveters. 
Revised and edited by D. K. Clark. 3d edition. London, 1890. (Weale's 
Series.) $1.60 

Davis. A Treatise on Steam-Boiler Incrustation, and Methods for Pre- 
venting Corrosion and the Formation of Scale ; also a Complete List 
of all American Patents issued by the Government of the United States 
from 1790 to July 1, 1884, for Compounds and Mechanical Devices for 
Purifying Water, and for Preventing the Incrustation of Steam Boilers. 
65 engravings. 8vo. Philadelphia, 1884. $2.00 

Foley, Nelson. The Mechanical Engineer's Reference Book for Ma- 
chine and Boiler Construction, in two parts. Part I., General En- 
gineering Data. Part II., Boiler Construction. With 51 Plates and 
numerous illustrations specially drawn for this work. Folio, half mor. 
London, 1895. $25.00 

Horner. Plating and Boiler Making. A Practical Handbook for Work- 
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Hutton. Steam Boiler Construction: A Practical Handbook for Engi- 
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Munro. Steam Boilers : Their Defects, Management, and Construction. 
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London, 1892. $1.50 

Roper. The Steam Boiler : Its Care and Management. With instruc- 
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Use and Abuse of the Steam Boiler. Illustrated, nth edition. 

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Rose. Steam Boilers. A Practical Treatise on Boiler Construction and 
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Rowan. On Boiler Incrustation and Corrosion. New edition, revised 
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Sexton. Pocket Book for Boiler Makers and Steam Users, comprising a 
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and Slips, Foremen of Manufactories, and the # General Steam-Using 
Public. 4th edition, revised and enlarged. 321x10, roan. London, 1895. 

$2.00 

Stromeyer. Marine Boiler Management and Construction. Being a 
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On the Properties of Iron and Steel, on Boiler Mechanics, Workshop 
Practices, and Boiler Designs. 8vo. London, 1893. $500 

Thurston. Manual of Steam Boilers : Their Designs, Construction, and 
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Steam Boiler Explosions. In Theory and Practice, Illustrated. 

2d edition, 1 2mo. New York, 1888. $1.50 

A Handbook of Engine and Boiler Trials, and of the Indicator and 

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Traill. Boilers : Their Construction and Strength. A Handbook of 
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Engineers, Surveyors, Draughtsmen, Boiler Makers, and Steam Users. 
With illustrations. 3d edition, i2mo, mor. London, 1896. $5.00 

Triplex. Marine Boilers. A Treatise on the Causes and Prevention of 
their Priming, with Remarks on their General Management. Illustrated. 
i2mo. Sunderland, 1S99. $2.00 

Watson. Small Engines and Boilers. A Manual of Concise and 
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Wilson. A Treatise on Steam Boilers : Their Strength, Construction, 
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Barr. Practical Treatise on the Combustion of Coal, including descrip- 
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Clark and Williams. Fuel : Its Combustion and Economy, consisting of 
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Williams. Fuel : Its Combustion and Economy. Consisting of an 
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Clerk. The Theory of the Gas Engine. 2d edition, with Additional 
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The Gas Engine. History and Practical Working. With 100 illus- 
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Dixon. Manual of Ice-Making and Refrigerating Machines. A Treatise 
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Leask. Refrigerating Machinery. Its Principles and Management. 
With numerous illustrations. 8vo. London, 1894. $2.00 

Ledoux. Ice-Making Machines : the Theory of the Action of the Various 
Forms of Cold-producing or so-called Ice-Machines. Translated from 
the French. 248 pages and numerous tables. i6mo. New York, 1892. 

#0.50 

Redwood. Theoretical and Practical Ammonia Refrigeration. A Prac- 
tical handbook for the use of those in charge of refrigerating plants. 
Illustrated with numerous Tables. i2mo. New York, 1896. $1.00 

Wallis-Tayler. Refrigerating and Ice-Making Machinery. i2mo, cloth. 
Illustrated. London, 1896. $3«oo 



LIST OF BOOKS. 



INDICATORS. 

Bacon.. Treatise on the Richards Steam Engine Indicator. With a 
Supplement, describing the latest Improvements in the Instruments for 
Taking, Measuring, and Computing Diagrams. Also an Appendix, con- 
taining Useful Formulas and Rules for Engineers. 23 diagrams. 4th 
edition. i6mo, flex. New York, 1883. $1.00 

Ellison. Practical Applications of the Indicator. With reference to the 
Adjustment of Valve Gear on all Styles of Engines. 2d edition. 8vo. 
100 engravings. Chicago, 1897. $2.00 

Hemenway. Indicator Practice and Steam Engine Economy. With 
Plain Directions for Attaching the Indicator, Taking Diagrams, Comput- 
ing the Horse-Power, Drawing the Theoretical Curve, Calculating Steam 
Consumption, Determining Economy, Locating Derangement of Valves, 
and making all desired deductions ; also, Tables required in making the 
necessary computations, and an Outline of Current Practice in Testing 
Steam Engines and Boilers. 6th edition. i2mo. New York, 1898. 

$2.00 

Le Van. The Steam Engine Indicator and its Use. A Guide to Practi- 
cal Working Engineers for greater economy, and the better Working of 
Steam Engines. i8mo, boards. New York, 1896. $0.50 

The Steam Engine and the Indicator : Their Origin and Progressive 

Development, including the most recent examples of Steam and Gas 
Motors, together with the Indicator, its Principles, its Utility, and its Ap- 
plication. Illustrated by 205 engravings, chiefly of Indicator -cards. 8vo. 
Philadelphia, 1890. $4.00 

Porter. A Treatise on the Richards Steam Engine Indicator, and the 
Development and Application of Force in the Steam Engine. 5th edi- 
tion, revised and enlarged. -8vo. London, 1894. $3.00 

Pray. Twenty Years with the Indicator. Being a Practical Text-book 
for the Engineer or the Student, with no Complex Formulae. With 
many illustrations and rules as to the best way to run any Steam Engine 
to get the most economical results. How to Adjust Valves and Valve 
Motions Correctly. Full directions for working out Horse-Power, the 
Amount of Steam or Water per Horse-Power, Economy and Fuel. Ex- 
tended directions for Attaching the Indicator, what Motions to use and 
those not to use. Full directions for Computation of Power by Planim- 
eter and other methods, with many tables and hints. 8vo. New York, 
1896- #2:50 



D. VAN NOSTRA ND COMPANY. 



INJECTORS. 

Kneass. Practice and Theory of the Injector. 8vo. New York, 1895. 

$1.50 
Nissenson. Practical Treatise on Injectors as Feeders of Steam Boilers. 

Illustrated. 8vo, paper. New York, 1890. $0.50 

Pochet. Steam Injectors : Their Theory an-d Use. i6mo, boards. New 

York, 1890. Jo. 50 

INSTRUCTIONS TO ENGINEERS, FIREMEN, 
AND BOILER ATTENDANTS. 

Bale. A Hand-Book for Steam Users, being Rules for Engine Drivers 
and Boiler Attendants, with Notes on Steam Engine and Boiler Manage- 
ment and Steam Boiler Explosions. i2mo. London, 1890. $0.80 

Edwards. 900 Examination Questions and Answers for Engineers and 
Firemen (Stationary and Marine), who desire to obtain a U. S. Govern- 
ment or State License. A new, revised, and enlarged edition. 321110, 
mor. Philadelphia, 1897. $1.50 

Grimshaw. Steam Engine Catechism. A Series of Direct Practical 
Answers to Direct Practical Questions. Mainly intended for Young En- 
gineers. i8mo. New York, 1897. $2.00 

Grimshaw. The Engine Runner's Catechism. Telling how to Erect, 
Adjust, and Run the principal Steam Engines in use in the United States. 
Illustrated. i8mo. New York, 1898. $2.00 

Hawkins. Maxims and Instructions for the Boiler Room. Useful to 
Engineers, Firemen, and Mechanics, relating to Steam Generators, Pumps, 
Appliances, Steam Heating, Practical Plumbing, etc. 184 illustrations. 
8vo. New York, 1899. $2.00 

Aids to Engineer Examinations. Prepared for Applicants of all 

Grades with Questions and Answers. A Summary of the Principles and 
Practice of Steam Engineering. i2mo, leather, gilt edge. New York, 
1894. $2.00 

Reynolds. The Engineman's Pocket Companion and Practical Educator 
for Engineman, Boiler Attendants, and Mechanics. Illustrated. i6mo, 
London, 1886. $140 

Roper. Instructions and Suggestions for Engineers and Firemen who 
wish to Procure a License, Certificate, or Permit to take charge of any 
class of Steam Engines or Boilers, Stationary, Locomotive, and Marine. 
i8mo, mor. Philadelphia, 1894. $2.00 



LIST OF BOOKS. 

Rose. Key to Engines and Engine-running. A Practical Treatise 
upon the Management of Steam Engines and Boilers for the use of 
those who desire to pass an examination to take charge of an engine 
or boiler. i2mo, cloth. New York, 1899. $2.50 

Questions and Answers for Engineers. This little book contains all 

the questions that Engineers will be asked when undergoing an exami- 
nation for the purpose of procuring licenses, and they are so plain that 
any Engineer or Plreman of ordinary intelligence may commit them to 
memory in a short time. 5th edition. i8mo, mor. Philadelphia. $2.00 

Stephenson. Illustrated Practical Test Examination and Ready Refer- 
ence Book for Stationary, Locomotive, and Marine Engineers, Firemen, 
Electricians, and Machinists, to procure Steam Engineer's license. i6mo, 
Chicago, 1892. $1.00 

Stromberg. Steam User's Guide and Instructor. Plain and Correct Ex- 
planations in regard to Engines, Pumps, Dynamos, and Electricity. Prac- 
tically, so that Engineers, Machinists, Firemen, and Electricians of Lim- 
ited Education can understand and become expert practical engineers. 
i6mo. St. Louis, 1894. $1.50 

Watson. How to Run Engines and Boilers. Practical Instruction for 
Young Engineers and Steam Users. 2d edition. Illustrated. i6mo. 
New York, 1896. $1.00 

Zwicker. Practical Instructor in questions and answers for Machinists, 
Firemen, Electricians, and Steam Engineers. 241110. St. Louis, Mo., 
1898. $1.00 

LOCOMOTIVE ENGINEERING. 

Grimshaw. Locomotive Catechism. Containing nearly 1,300 Questions 
and Answers Concerning Designing and Constructing, Repairing and 
Running Various Kinds of Locomotive Engines. Intended as Exami- 
nation Questions and to Post and Remind the Engine Runner, Fireman, 
or Learner. 176 illustrations. i2mo. New York, 1898. $2.00 

Hill. Progressive Examinations of Locomotive Engineers and Firemen. 
i6mo. New York, 1891. $0.50 

Meyer. Modern Locomotive Construction. 1,030 illustrations. 4to. New 
York, 1894. $10.00 

Phelan. Air Brake Practice, being a description of the construction, ob- 
jects sought, and results obtained, by the Westinghouse automatic air 
brake, as well as complete directions for operating it under the many 
diverse conditions in daily practice. 3 large folding plates. i2mo. New 
York, 1890. $1.00 



D. VAN NOSTRAND COMPANY. 

Reagan. Locomotive Mechanism and Engineering. i2mo, with 145 il- 
lustrations. New York, 1898. $2.00 

Reynolds. Locomotive Engine Driving. A Practical Manual for Engi- 
neers in charge of Locomotive Engines. 8ih edition, enlarged. i2mo. 
London, 1892. $1.40 

The Model Locomotive Engineer, Fireman, and Engine Boy : Com- 
prising a Historical Notice of the Pioneer Locomotive Engines and their 
Inventors. i2mo. London, 1895. $[.80 

Continuous Railway Brakes. A Practical Treatise on the several 

Systems in use in the United Kingdom ; their Construction and Perform- 
ance. Numerous illustrations and tables. 8vo. London, 1882. $3.60 

Engine Driving Life : Stirring Adventures and Incidents in the Lives 

of Locomotive Engine Drivers. 2d edition, with additional chapters. 
i2mo. London, 1894. $0.80 

Rogers. Pocket Primer or Air Brake Instruction. Stiff paper cover. $0.50 

Roper. Hand-Book of the Locomotive; including the construction of 
engines and boilers and running of locomotives. 15th edition, revised. 
i2mo, mor. tucks. Philadelphia, 1897. $2.50 

Sinclair. Locomotive-Engine Running and Management. A Practical 
Treatise on Locomotive Engines, showing their performance in running 
different kinds of trains with economy and Despatch. Also, directions 
regarding the care, management, and repairs of Locomotives and all their 
connections. Illustrated by numerous engravings. 21st edition, revised. 
i2mo. New York, 1899. $2.00 

Stretton. The Locomotive Engine and its Development. A Popular 
Treatise on the Gradual Improvements made in Railway Engines be- 
tween the years 1803 and 1892. Illustrated. i2mo. 3d edition. Lon- 
don, 1896. $i-5o 

Synnestvedt. Diseases gf the Air Brake System. Their Causes, Symp- 
toms, and Cure. Illustrated. i2mo. 1894. $1.00 

Woods. Compound Locomotives. 2d edition, revised and enlarged by 
D. L. Barnes. 8vo. Illustrated. Chicago, 1894. $3.00 



MACHINE TOOLS AND APPLIANCES. 

Harrison. The Mechanic's Tool Book, with Practical Rules and Sugges- 
tions for Machinists, Iron Workers, and others. i2mo. New York, 
1882. $1.50 



LIST OF BOOKS. 

Hasluck. The Mechanics' Work-shop Handy Book. A Practical Man- 
ual on Mechanical Manipulation. Embracing Information on Various ' 
Handicraft Processes, with Useful Notes and Miscellaneous Memoranda. 
i2mo. London, 1895. $0.50 

Knight. Mechanician. A Treatise on the Construction and Manipulation 
of Tools, for the Use and Instruction of Young Engineers and Scientific 
Amateurs. 4th edition. 4to. London, 1888. $7-25 

Lukin. Young Mechanic. Containing directions for the use of all kinds 
of Tools and for construction of Steam Engines and Mechanical Models, 
including the Art of Turning in Wood and Metal. Illustrated. i2mo. 
New York. #1.75 

Rose. Complete Practical Machinist. Embracing Lathe Work, Vise 
Work, Drills and Drilling, Taps and Dies, Hardening and Tempering, 
the Making and Use of Tools, Tool Grinding, Marking out Work, etc. 
Illustrated by 356 engravings. 19th edition, greatly enlarged. i2mo. 
Philadelphia, 1899. $2.50 

Shelley. Work-shop Appliances. Including descriptions of some of the 
Gauging and Measuring Instruments, Hand Cutting Tools, Lathes, Drill- 
ing, Planing, and other Machine Tools used by Engineers. 10th edition, 
with an additional chapter on Milling, by R. R. Lister. Illustrated. 
i2mo. London, 1897. $1.50 

Smith. Cutting Tools worked by Hand and Machine. 14 plates and 51 
illustrations. 2d edition. i2mo. London, 1884. $1.50 

Usher. Modern Machinist. A Practical Treatise on Modern Machine 
Shop Methods, describing in a comprehensive manner the most Approved 
Methods, Processes, and Appliances Employed in Present Practice, etc. 
257 illustrations. i2mo. New York, 1895. $2.50 

Watson. Modern Practice of American Machinists and Engineers. i2mo. 
Illustrated. Philadelphia, 1892. $2.50 

MECHANICAL DRAWING AND MACHINE 
DESIGN. 

Andre. Draughtsman's Hand-Book of Plan and Map Drawing ; including 
Instructions for the preparation of Engineering, Architectural and Me- 
chanical Drawings, with numerous illustrations, and colored examples. 
8vo. London, 1891. $3-75 

Appleton's Cyclopaedia of Technical Drawing. Embracing the Principles 
of construction as applied to Practical Design. With numerous illustra- 
tions of Topographical, Mechanical, Engineering, Architectural, Perspec- 
tive, and Free-hand Drawing. 8vo, leather, New York, 1887. #9.00 



D. VAN NOSTRAND COMPANY. 

Armengaud, Amoroux, and Johnson. Practical Draughtsman's Book of 

Industrial Design, and Machinists' and Engineers' Drawing Companion. 
Forming a Complete Course of Mechanical, Engineering, and Architectu- 
ral Drawing, with additional matter and plates, selections from and ex- 
amples of the most useful and generally employed mechanism of the 
day. Illustrated by fifty folio steel plates, and fifty woodcuts. New 
edition. 4to, half mor. Philadelphia, 1892. $6.00 

Barber. Engineers' Sketch Book of Mechanical Movements, Devices, Ap- 
pliances, Contrivances, Details employed in the Design and Construction 
of Machinery for every Purpose. Collected from numerous sources and 
from actual work. Classified and arranged for reference. Nearly 2,000 
illustrations. 8vo. London, 1897. $4.00 

Building and Machine Draughtsman. A practical guide to the projection 
and delineation of subjects met with in the practice of the engineer, 
machinist, and building constructor, etc. ; by practical draughtsmen. 
i2mo. London, 1891. $2.00 

Burns. Illustrated Architectural Engineering and Mechanical Drawing 
Book. For the use of Schools, Students, and Artisans. 10th edition, 
revised and corrected, with additional sections on important departments 
of the art. 8vo. 284 illustrations. New York, 1893. $1.00 

Davidson. Drawing for Machinists and Engineers. Comprising a com- 
plete course of Drawling adapted to the requirements of Millwrights and 
Engineers ; also, course of practical instruction in the coloring of me- 
chanical drawings. 4th edition. i6mo. London. $1.75 

Donaldson. Drawing and Rough Sketching for Marine Engineers, with 
Proportions, Instructions, Explanations, and Examples ; also How to De- 
sign Engines, Boilers, Propellers, Paddle Wheels, Shafts, Rods, Valves, 
etc. 6th edition. Illustrated. London, 1899. $3.00 

Faunce. Mechanical Drawing, prepared for the use of the students of 
the Mass. Institute of Technology. 2d edition, revised and enlarged. 
Illustrated and 8 plates. i2mo. Boston, 1898. $1.25 

Fox and Thomas. A Practical Course in Mechanical Drawing. Being 
a Course of Progressive Lessons illustrated with many diagrams and 
figures especially adapted to use of schools, colleges, etc. i2mo, cloth. 
Illustrated. New York, 1899. $1.25 

Halliday. First Course in Mechanical Drawing (Tracing). Folio, paper. 
London, 1889. $0.75 

Mechanical Graphics. A second course in Mechanical Drawing, with 

preface by Professor Perry. 8vo. London, 1889. $2.00 

Hulme. Mathematical Drawing Instruments and How to Use Them. 
4th edition. i2mo. New York, 1890. #1.50 



LIST OF BOOKS. 

Low and Bevis. Manual of Machine Drawing and Design. 3d edition, 

753 illustrations. 8vo. London, 1898. $2.50 

MacCord. Practical Hints for Draughtsmen. Illustrated with 68 dia- 
grams and full page plates. 3d edition, 4to. New York, 1890. $2.50 

Mechanical Drawing. Progressive Exercises and Practical Hints. 

For the use of all who wish to acquire the Art, with or without the aid 
of an Instructor. 232 illustrations. 4to. New York, 1895. $4.00 

Kinematics, or Practical Mechanics. A Treatise on the Transmis- 



sion and Modification of Motion and the Construction of Mechanical 
Movements. For the use of Draughtsmen, Machinists, and Students of 
Mechanical Engineering, in which the laws governing the motions and 
various parts of Mechanics, as affected by their forms and modes of con- 
nection, are deduced by simple geometrical reasoning, and their applica- 
tion is illustrated by accurately constructed diagrams of the different 
mechanical combinations discussed. 4th edition. 8vo. New York. 
1896. $5.00 

Mahan and Thompson. Industrial Drawing. Comprising the Descrip- 
tion and Uses of Drawing Instruments, the Construction of Plane Fig- 
ures, the Projections and Sections of Geometrical Solids, Architectural 
Elements, Mechanism, and Topographical Drawing. Revised and en- 
larged, and chapter on Colored Topography added. 30 plates. 8vo. 
New York, 1890. $3- 50 

Minifie. Mechanical Drawing. A Text-Book of Geometrical Drawing, 
for the use of Mechanics and Schools, in which the Definitions and Rules 
of Geometry are familiarly explained : the Practical Problems are ar- 
ranged from the most simple to the more complex, and in theif descrip- 
tion technicalities are avoided as much as possible. With illustrations 
for Drawing Plans, Sections, and Elevations of Buildings and Machin- 
ery ; an Introduction to Isometrical Drawing, and an Essay on Linear 
Perspective and Shadows. Illustrated by over 200 diagrams, engraved 
on steel. With an Appendix on the Theory and Application of Colors. 
8vo. New York, 1893. $4.00 

Geometrical Drawing. Abridged from the octavo edition, for the 

use of Schools. Illustrated with 48 steel plates. 9th edition. Revised 
and enlarged. i2mo. New York, 1890. $2.00 

Palmer. Mechanical Drawing, Projection Drawing, Geometric and Oblique 
Drawing, Working Drawings. A Condensed Text for Class Room use. 
8vo. Columbus, O. 1894. #1.00 



D. VAN NOSTRAND COMPANY. 

Ripper. Machine Drawing and Design for Technical Schools and Engi- 
neer Students. Being a complete course of Instruction in Engineering 
Drawing, with Notes and Exercises on the Application of Principles to 
Engine and Machine Design, and on the Preparation of Finished Col- 
ored Drawings. Illustrated by 52 plates and numerous explanatory 
drawings. 8vo. London, 1S97. * $6.00 

Roberts. Drawing and Designing for Marine Engineers. 21 large fold- 
ing plates and many other illustrations throughout the text. 8vo. Lon- 
don, 1898. $3.00 

Rose. Mechanical Drawing Self-Taught. Comprising Instructions in 
the Selection and Preparation of Drawing Instruments, Elementary In- 
struction in Practical Mechanical Drawing, together with Examples in 
Simple Geometry and Elementary Mechanism, including Screw Threads, 
Gear Wheels, Mechanical Motions, Engines and Boilers. Illustrated by 
330 engravings. 4th edition, revised. 8vo. Philadelphia, 1898, $4.00 

Shaw. Mechanical Integrators. Including the various Forms of Pla- 
nimeters. i8mo, boards. Illustrated. New York, 1886. Jo. 50 

Smith. Graphics, or the Art of Calculation by Drawing Lines, applied 
especially to Mechanical Engineering. Part I. Text, with Separate Atlas 
of Plates — Arithmetic, Algebra, Trigonometry, Vector and Lecor Addi- 
tion, Machine Kinematics, and Statics of Flat and Solid Structures. 8vo. 
London, 1888. $5.00 

Stanley. Descriptive Treatise on Mathematical Drawing Instruments, 

their Construction, Uses, Qualities, Selection, Preservation, and Sugges- 
tions for Improvements, with Hints upon Drawing and Coloring. 5th 
edition. i2mo. London, 1878. $2.00 

Tomkins. Principles of Machine Construction ; being an application of 
Geometrical Drawing for the Representation of Machinery. Text i2mo, 
Plates 4to. New York. #3. 50 

Unwin. Elements of Machine Design. Part I. General Principles, Fas- 
tenings, and Transmissive Machinery. 16th edition. i2mo. London, 
1898. #2.00 

Part II. Chiefly on Engine Details. i2mo. 13th edition, revised 

and enlarged. London, 1895. $1.50 

Warren. Elements of Machine Construction and Drawing : or, Machine 
Drawing, with some elements of descriptive and rational kinematics. 
Z vols. Text and plates. 8vo New York. $7.§o 



LIST OF BOOKS. 

MECHANICAL ENGINEERS' HAND-BOOKS. 

Adams. Hand-Book for Mechanical Engineers. 2d edition. Revised 
and enlarged. i2mo. London, 1897. $2.50 

Appleton's Cyclopaedia of Applied Mechanics : a Dictionary of Mechani- 
cal Engineering and the Mechanical Arts. Edited by Park Benjamin. 
Nearly 7,000 illustrations. Revised and improved edition. 2 vols. 8vo, 
leather. New York, 1893. $15.00 

Bale. Steam and Machinery Management : A Guide to the Arrangement 
and Economical Management of Machinery, with Hints on Construction 
and Selection. Illustrated. 2d edition. i2mo. London, 1890. (Weale's 
Series.) $1.00 

Benjamin. Wrinkles and Recipes. Compiled from the Scientific Ameri- 
can. A collection of Practical Suggestions, Processes, and Directions, 
for the Mechanic, Engineer, Farmer, and Housekeeper. With a Color 
Tempering Scale and Numerous Wood Engravings. 4th revised edition. 
i2mo. New York, 1894. $2.00 

Byrne. Hand-Book for the Artisan, Mechanic, and Engineer. Compris 
ing the Grinding and Sharpening of Cutting Tools, Abrasive Processes, 
Lapidary Work, Gem and Glass Engraving, Varnishing and Lackering 
Apparatus, Materials and Processes for Grinding and Polishing, etc. 8vo. 
Illustrated. Philadelphia, 1887. $5.00 

Carpenter. Text-Book of Experimental Engineering. For Engineers and 
for Students in Engineering Laboratories. 249 illustrations. 5th revised 
edition. 8vo. New York, 1898. $6.00 

Chordal. Extracts from ChordaPs Letters. Comprising the choicest 
selections from the Series of Articles which have been appearing for the 
past two years in the columns of the American Machiiiist. With over 50 
illustrations. i2mo. New York, 1898. $2.00 

Clark. Manual of Rules, Tables, and Data for Mechanical Engineers, 
based on the most recent investigations. With numerous Diagrams. 
6th edition. 1,012 pages. London, 1897. $5.00 

Mechanical Engineers' Pocket-Book of Tables, Formulae, Rules, and 

Data. A Handy-Book of Reference for Daily Use in Engineering Prac- 
tice. i6mo, mor. London, 1893. $3.00 

Dixon. The Machinists' and Steam Engineers' Practical Calculator. 
A compilation of useful Rules and Problems, arithmetically solved, to- 
gether with general information applicable to Shop Tools, Mill Gearing, 
Pulleys and Shafts, Steam Boilers and Engines. Embracing valuable 
Tables and Instructions in Screw Cutting, Valve and Link Motion. 2d 
edition. i6mo, mor., pocket form. New York, 1892. #1.25 



Z>. VAN NOSTRAND COMPANY, 

Engineering Estimates, Costs, and Accounts. A Guide to Commercial 
Engineering. With numerous Examples of Estimates and Costs of Mill- 
wright Work, Miscellaneous Productions, Steam Engines and Steam 
Boilers, and a Section on the Preparation of Costs Accounts. By a Gen- 
eral Manager. 8vo. London, 1890. $4.80 

General Machinist, Being a Practical Introduction to the Leading Depart- 
ments of Mechanism and Machinery, the Communication of Motion or 
the Transmission of Force by Belt, Rope, Wire Rope, and Pulley Gearing 
— Toothed-Wheel and Frictional Gearing ; together with the details of 
the component and essential parts of mechanism — Shafts, Pedestals, 
Hanger, Clutches, etc., and of the methods of fitting up Machines, Screw 
Bolts, Riveting, etc. By various practical w r riters and machinists. 75 
illustrations and 4 folding plates. 8vo. London, 1891. * $2.00 

Grimshaw. Hints to Power Users. Plain, Practical Pointers, free from 
high Science, and intended for the man who pays the bills. i2mo. New 
York, 1 89 1. $1.00 

Hasluck. Mechanics Workshop Handy-Book. A Practical Manual on 
Mechanical Manipulation. Embracing Information on Various Handi- 
craft Processes, with Useful Notes, and Miscellaneous Memoranda. 
i2mo. London, 1888. $0.50 

Haswell. Engineers' and Mechanics' Pocket Book, Containing Weights 
and Measures, Rules of Arithmetic, Weights and Materials, Latitude and 
Longitude, Cables and Anchors, Specific Gravities, Squares, Cubes, and 
Roots, etc. ; Mensuration of Surfaces and Solids, Trigonometry, Me- 
chanics, Friction, Aerostatics, Hydraulics and Hydrodynamics, Dynamics, 
Gravitation, Animal Strength, Windmills, Strength of Materials, Limes, 
Mortars, Cements, etc. ; Wheels, Heat, Water, Gunnery, Sewers, Com- 
bustion, Steam and the Steam Engine, Construction of Vessels, Miscel- 
laneous Illustrations, Dimensions of Steamers, Mills, etc.; Orthography 
of Technical Words and Terms, etc. 62d edition. Revised and enlarged. 
i2mo, mor. tuck. New York, 1899. $4.00 

Hawkins. Hand-Book of Calculations, for Engineers and Firemen ; re- 
lating to the Steam Engine, the Steam Boiler, Pumps, Shafting, etc. 
Illustrated. 8vo. New York, 1898. $2.00 

Hutton. Works Manager's Hand-Book of Modern Rules, Tables, and 
Data for Civil and Mechanical Engineers, Millwrights, and Boiler Makers, 
Tool Makers, Machinists, and Metal Workers, Iron and Brass Founders, 
etc. 5th edition, revised, with additions. 8vo, half-bound. London, 
1895. $6.00 



LIST OF BOOKS. 

Hutton. Practical Engineer's Hand-Book. Comprising a Treatise ori 
•Modern Engines and Boilers, Marine, Locomotive, and Stationary, and 
containing a large Collection of Rules and Practical Data Relating to 
Recent Practice in Designing and Constructing all kinds of Engines, 
Boilers, and other Engineering Work. 5th edition, carefully revised, with 
additions. 370 illustrations. 8vo. London, 1896. $7.00 

Kent. Mechanical Engineers' Pocket-Book. A Reference Book of Rules, 
Tables, Data, and Formulae, for the Use of Engineers, Mechanics, and 
Students. 1,087 pages. i2mo. New York, 1899. $5.00 

Knight. American Mechanical Dictionary. A Descriptive Word Book 
of Tools, Instruments, Chemical and Mechanical Processes; Civil, Me- 
chanical, Railroad, Hydraulic, and Military Engineering. A History of 
Inventions. 'General Technological Vocabulary, and Digest of Mechani- 
cal Appliances in Science and the Industrial and Fine Arts. 3 vols. 
Illustrated, 8vo. Boston, 1884. $24.00 

Supplement to the above, $9.00 

The 4 vols., complete, $27.50 

Lockwood's Dictionary of Terms used in the Practice of Mechanical En- 
gineering. Embracing those current in the Drawing Office, Pattern Shop, 
Foundry, Fitting, Turning, Smiths' and Boiler Shops, etc., comprising 
upwards of 6,000 definitions. Edited by a Foreman Pattern Maker. 
i2mo. London, 1888. $3.00 

Molesworth. Pocket-Book of Useful Formulas and Memoranda for Civil 
and Mechanical Engineers. 23d edition, revised and enlarged. Pocket- 
book form. London, 1899. $2.00 

Moore. Universal Assistant and Complete Mechanic : Containing over 
One Million Industrial Facts, Calculations, Receipts, Processes, Trade 
Secrets, Rules, Business Forms, Legal Items, etc. Illustrated. i2mo. 
New York. $2.50 

Nystrom's Pocket-Book of Mechanics and Engineering. Revised and 
corrected by W. D. Marks. 20th edition. Greatly enlarged. i2mo, 
mor. tucks. Philadelphia, 1895. $3-S° 

Rankine. Useful Rules and Tables relating to Mensuration, Engineering 
Structures, and Machines. 7th edition, thoroughly revised by W. J. 
Millar. With Electrical Engineering Tables, Tests, and Formulae for the 
use of Engineers, by Prof. A. Jamieson. i2mo. London, 1889. $4.00 

Roper. Engineers* Handy-Book. Containing a full explanation of the 
Steam Engine Indicator, and the Use and Advantage to Engineers and 
Steam Users. With Formulae for estimating the Power of all Classes 



D. VAN NOSTRAND COMPANY. 

of Steam Engines ; also Facts, Figures, Questions, and Tables, for Engi- 
neers who wish to qualify themselves for the United States Navy, the 
Revenue Service, the Mercantile Marine, or to take charge of the better 
class of stationary Steam Engines. Illustrated. 14th edition. i6mo, 
mor. tucks. Philadelphia, 1899. $3-50 

Scribner. Engineer and Mechanics* Companion. Comprising United 
States Weights and Measures, Mensuration of Superfices and Solids; 
Tables of Squares and Cubes ; Square and Cube Roots ; Circumference 
and Areas of Circles ; the Mechanical Powers ; Centres of Gravity ; Gravi- 
tation of Bodies ; Pendulums ; Specific Gravity of Bodies ; Strength, 
Weight, and Crush of Materials ; Water-wheels, Hydrostatics, Hydraulics, 
Statics, Centres of Percussion and Gyration; Friction Heat; Tables of 
the Weight of Metals, Scantling, etc. ; Steam and Steam Engine. 20th 
edition, revised. i6mo, full mor. New York, 1890. #1-50 

Spons' Tables and Memoranda for Engineers, and convenient reference 
for the pocket. 10th edition, 641110, roan, gilt edges. London, 1889. 
In cloth case. $0.50 

Mechanics' Own Book. A Manual for Handicraftsmen and Ama- 
teurs. Complete in one large vol., 8vo, containing 700 pp. and 1,420 
illustrations. 2d edition. London, 1898. $2.50 

- Dictionary of Engineering. Civil, Mechanical, Military, and Naval, 



with Technical Terms in French, German, Italian, and Spanish. 8 vols. 

8vo, cl. London, 1874. Each, $5.00 

Supplement to above. 3 vols., cl. London, 1881. Each, $5.00 

Templeton. Practical Mechanics' Workshop Companion. Completing 
a great variety of the most useful Rules and Formulae in Mechanical 
Science, with numerous Tables of Practical Data and Calculated Results 
for Facilitating Mechanical Operations. 17th edition, revised, modernized, 
and considerably enlarged, by Walter S. Hutton. i6mo, leather. Lon- 
don, 1895. $2.00 

Engineers', Millwrights', and Mechanics' Pocket Companion. 

' Comprising Decimal Arithmetic, Tables of Square and Cube Roots, Prac- 
tical Geometry, Mensuration, Strength of Materials, Mechanical Powers, 
Water Wheels, Pumps and Pumping Engines, Steam Engines, Tables of 
Specific Gravity, etc. Revised, corrected, and enlarged from the 8th Eng- 
lish edition, and adapted to American Practice, with the addition of much 
new matter. Illustrated by J. W. Adams. i2mo, mor. tucks. New York, 
1893. $2.00 



LIST OF BOOKS. 

Van Cleve. English and American Mechanic. An every-day Hand-Book 
for the Workshop and the Factory. Containing Several Thousand Re- 
ceipts, Rules, and Tables indispensable to the Mechanic, the Artisan, and 
the Manufacturer. A new, revised, enlarged, and improved edition. 
Edited by Emory Edwards, M.E. i2mo. Philadelphia, 1893. $2.00 

MECHANICS (ELEMENTARY AND APPLIED). 

Church. Notes and Examples in Mechanics ; with an Appendix on the 

Graphical Statics of Mechanism. 128 illustrations and 6 plates. 8vo. 

New York, 1897. $2.00 

Cotterill. Applied Mechanics, an Elementary General Introduction to 

the Theory of Structures and Machines. Illustrated. 3d edition. 8vo. 

London, 1895. $5.00 

and S lade. Lessons in Applied Mechanics. i2mo. London, 1894. 

Net $1.2$ 

Dana. A Text-Book of Elementary Mechanics for the use of Colleges 
and Schools. 10th edition. i2mo. New York, 1898. $i-5° 

DuBois. Elementary Principles of Mechanics. Designed as a Text-Book 
for technical schools. 3 vols. 8vo. New York. 

Vol. I. Kinematics. $3-5° 

Vol. II. Statics. k #4-oo 

Vol. III. Kinetics. $3-5° 

Garnett. Treatise on Elementary Dynamics. For the use of Colleges 
and Schools. 5th edition. 8vo. London, 1889. Net $i.$o 

Geldard. Statics and Dynamics. Illus. i2mo. London, 1893. #1.50 

Goodeve. Principles of Mechanics. New edition, rewritten and enlarged. 
i2mo. London, 1889. $ 2 -5° 

Manual of Mechanics. An Elementary Text-Book for Students of 

Applied Mechanics. Illustrated. i2mo. London, 1881. $0.80 

Hancock. Text-Book of Mechanics and Hydrostatics. With over 500 
diagrams. 8vo. New York, 1894. $ I -75 

Hughes. Condensed Mechanics : a selection of Formulae, Rules, Tables, 
and Data for the Use of Engineering Students, Science Classes, etc., in 
accordance with the requirements of the Science and Art Department. 
i2mo. London, 1891. $1.00 

Jamieson. Elementary Manual of Applied Mechanics. Specially ar- 
ranged for the use of First Year Science and Art, City and Guilds of 
London Institute, and other Elementary Engineering Students. i2mo. 
London, 1898. # I>2 5 



D. VAN NOSTRAKD COMPANY. 

Kennedy. Mechanics of Machinery. With numerous illustrations. i2mo. 
London, 18S6. $3-5° 

Kinematics of Machinery; or, The Elements of Mechanism. i6mo, 

boards. New York, 1881. $0.50 

Nystrom. New Treatise on Elements of Mechanics. 8vo. Philadelphia, 
1875. #2.00 

Perry. Applied Mechanics. Illustrated. i2mo. London, 1898. 

$2.50 

Practical Mechanics. Being the Fourth Volume of " Amateur Work Il- 
lustrated." Plates and illustrations. 4to. London. $3.00 

Rankine. Applied Mechanics, comprising Principles of Statics, Cinemat- 
ics, and Dynamics, and Theory of Structures, Mechanism, and Machines. 
i2mo. 15th edition, thoroughly revised, by W. J. Millard. London, 1898. 

$5.00 

and Bamber. Mechanical Text-Book ; or, Introduction to the Study 

of Mechanics and Engineering. With numerous diagrams. 4th edition, 
revised. 8vo. London, 1890. $3. 50 

Stahl and Woods. Elementary Mechanism. A Text-Book for Students 
of Mechanical Engineering. 7th edition, revised and enlarged. Illus- 
trated. i2mo. New York, 1896. $2.00 

Weisbach. Theoretical Mechanics, with an introduction to the Calculus. 
Translated from the fourth German edition by E. B. Coxe. 8th edition, 
revised. 8vo. New York, 1889. $10.00 

Vol. II., Part 1. Hydraulics and Hydraulic Motors. $5-00 

Vol. II., Part 2. Heat, Steam, and Steam Engines. $5-oo 

Vol. III., Part 1. Kinematics and Machinery of Transmission. $5.00 
Vol. III., Part 2. Machinery of Transmission and Governors. $5.00 

Wood. Elements of Analytical Mechanics. With numerous examples 
and illustrations. For use in Scientific Schools and Colleges. 7th edi- 
tion, revised and enlarged, comprising Mechanics of Solids and Mechanics 
of Fluids, of which Mechanics of Thirds is entirely new. 8vo. New 
York, 1897. $3.00 

Principles of Elementary Mechanics. Fully illustrated. 9th edition. 

1 2 mo. New York, 1894. $1.25 

Wright. Text-Book of Mechanics. With numerous examples. 3d edi- 
tion. i2mo. New York. $2.50 



List of books. 



MISCELLANEOUS. 

Amateur Mechanics Workshop. A Treatise containing plain and concise 
directions for the manipulation of Wood and Metals, including Casting, 
Forging, Brazing, Soldering, and Carpentry. By the author of " The 
Lathe and its Uses." 7th edition. Illustrated. 8vo. London, 1888. 

$3.00 

Saunders. Compressed Air Production. Rules, tables, and illustrations 
relating to the Theory and Practice of Air Compression and Compressed 
Air Machinery. Illustrated. 8vo. New York, 1898. $1.00 

Smith. Workshop Management : a Manual for Masters and Men, com- 
prising a few Practical Remarks on the Economic Conduct of Workshops. 
3d edition. i2mo. London, 1883. $0.80 

Plympton, Prof. Geo. W. How to become an Engineer ; or, the Theo- 
retical and Practical Training necessary in fitting for the Duties of 
the Civil Engineer. (Van Nostrand's Science Series). $0.50 

STEAM AND STEAM ENGINES. 

Alexander. Model Engine Construction. With Practical Instructions to 
Artificers and Amateurs. Containing numerous illustrations and twenty- 
one Working Drawings, from Original Drawings by the Author. i2mo. 
London, 1895. $3.00 

Baker. Treatise on the Mathematical Theory of the Steam Engine. 
With Rules at length and Examples worked out, for the use of practical 
men, with numerous diagrams. 8th edition. London, 1890. $0.60 

Bale. How to Manage a Steam Engine ; a Handbook for all who use 
Steam. Illustrated, with examples of different Types of Engines and 
Boilers ; with Hints on their Construction, Working, Fixing, Economy 
of Fuel. etc. 7th edition. i2mo. London, 1890. $0.80 

Bourne. Catechism of the Steam Engine in its various Applications to 
Mines, Mills, etc. New edition, enlarged. Illustrated. i2mo. New 
York, 1897; $2.00 

Hand-Book of the Steam Engine, containing all the Rules required 

for the right Construction and Management of Engines of every Class, 
with the easy Arithmetical Solution of those Rules. Illustrated. J2mo. 
New York. 1892. #1.75 

Burn. Steam Engine, its History and Mechanism. 3d edition. 8vo. 
Illustrated. London, 1857. #1.00 



2>. VAN NOSTkAND COMPANY. 

Clark. Steam and the Steam Engine, Stationary and Portable. (Being 
an Extension of the Elementary Treatise on the Steam Engine, of Mr. 
John Sevvell.) 4th edition. London, 1892. $1 .40 

The Steam Engine. A Treatise on Steam Engines and Boilers ; 

comprising the Principles and Practice of the Combustion of Fuel, the 
Economical Generation of Steam, the Construction of Steam Boilers, 
and the principles, construction, and performance of Steam Engines, 
Stationary, Portable, Locomotive, and Marine, exemplified in Engines 
and Boilers of recent date. Illustrated by above 1,300 figures in the text, 
and a series of folding plates drawn to scale. 2 vols. 8vo. London, 
1895. $15.00 

Colyer. Treatise on Modern Steam Engines and Boilers, including Land, 
Locomotive, and Marine Engines and Boilers. For the use of Students. 
With 46 plates. 4to. London, 1886. $5.00 

Cotterill. Steam Engine considered as a Thermodynamic Machine. A 
Treatise on the Thermodynamic Efficiency of Steam Engines. Illus- 
trated by tables, diagrams, and examples from practice. 3d edition, re- 
vised and enlarged. t 8vo. London. 1896. net $4.50 

Diesel. Theory and Construction of a Rational Heat Motor. Translated 
from the German by Bryan Donkin. With eleven figures in the text and 
three plates. 8vo. London, 1894. $2.50 

Edwards. American Steam Engineer, Theoretical and Practical. With 
Examples of the latest and most approved American Practice on the De- 
sign and Construction of Steam Engines and Boilers of every description. 
For the use of Engineers, Machinists, Boiler Makers, etc. Illustrated by 
77 engravings. i2mo. Philadelphia, 1893. $2.50 

Practical Steam Engineer Guide in the Design, Construction, and 

Management of American Stationary, Portable, and Steam Fire Engines, 
Steam Pumps, Boilers, Injectors, Governors, Indicators, Pistons, and 
Rings, Safety Valves and Steam Gauges. For the use of Engineers, 
Firemen, and Steam Users. Illustrated. 3d edition, revised and cor 
rected. i2mo. Philadelphia, 1898. $2.50 

Evers. Steam and other Prime Movers. A Text-Book both Theoretical 
and Practical. Illustrated. i2mo. London, 1890. $1-50 

Steam and the Steam Engine ; Land, Marine, and Locomotive II 

lustrated. i2mo. New York. $1.00 

Ewing. Steam Engine and other Heating Engines. Illustrated. 8vo, 
Cambridge, 1897. #3-75 



LIST OF BOOKS. 



Goodeve. Text-Book on the Steam Engine. With a Supplement on Gas 
Engines and on Heat Engines. 12th edition, enlarged. i2mo. 143 
illustrations. London, 1893. $2.00 

Gould. Arithmetic of the Steam Engine. i2mo. N. Y. 1898. $1.00 

Grimshaw. Steam Engine Catechism. A series of direct practical an 
swers to direct practical questions, mainly intended for young engineers 
and for examination questions. 10th edition, enlarged and improved. 
i8mo. New York, 1897. $2.00 

Haeder. Hand-Book on the Steam Engine with especial Reference to 
Small and Medium sized Engines. For the Use of Engine Makers, Me- 
chanical Draughtsmen, Engineering Students, and Users of Steam 
Power. 1,100 illustrations. i2mo. London, 1896. $3-00 

Henthorn. Corliss Engine and its Management. Edited by E. P. Watson. 
3d edition, enlarged with an appendix, by Emil Herter. Illustrated. 
i8mo. New York, 1897. $1.00 

Holmes. Steam Engine. 212 illustrations. 10th edition. i2mo. London, 
1898. $2.00 

This is a complete practical and theoretical treatise on the steam-engine, written in 
very clear and beautiful style, rendering the more abstruse principles of the subject as 
plain and simple as it is probably possible to make them. It is one of the best, if not the 
best, combinations of theoretical investigation and practical applications in the whole lite- 
rature of the subject, and forms an admirable companion to Ripper's smaller and more 
exclusively practical treatise. 

Jamieson. Text-Book of Steam and Steam Engines. 10th edition, with 
numerous diagrams, four folding plates and examination questions. i2mo. 
London, 1897. $3.00 

Elementary Manual on Steam and the Steam Engine. With nu- 
merous diagrams, arithmetical examples, and examination questions. 
i2mo. London, 1898. $1.40 

Lardner. Treatise on the Steam Engine, for the use of Beginners. 16th 
edition. Illustrated. London, 1893. $0.60 

Le Van. Steam Engine and the Indicator ; their Origin and Progressive 
Development, including the most recent examples of Steam and Gas 
Motors, together with the Indicator, its Principles, its Utility, and its Ap- 
plication. Illustrated by 205 Engravings, chiefly of Indicator Cards. 8vo. 
Philadelphia, 1892. $4.00 

Mallet. Compound Engines. i6mo, boards. New York, 1884. $0.50 

Marks. Relative Proportions of the Steam Engine. i2mo. Illustrated. 
3d edition. Philadelphia, 1896. $3.00 

Peabody. Table of the Properties of Saturated Steam and other Vapors. 
8vo. New York, 1888. #i-oo 



D. VAN NOSTKAND COMPANY. 

Pray. Steam Tables and Engine Constants. For facilitating all calcu- 
lations upon Indicator Diagrams or Various Problems connected with 
the operation of the Steam Engine, from reliable data and with precision 
compiled from Regnault, Rankine, and Dixon directly, making use of the 
exact records. 8vo. New York, 1894. $2.00 

Rankine. Manual of the Steam Engine and other Prime Movers, with 
numerous tables and illustrations. i2mo. 13th edition. London, 1897. 

$5.00 

Rigg. Practical Treatise on the Steam Engine, containing Plans and 
Arrangements of Details for Fixed Steam Engines, with Essays on the 
Principles involved in Design and Construction. Copiously illustrated 
with woodcuts and 96 plates. 4to. 2d edition. New York, 1894. 

$10.00 

Ripper. Steam. Illustrated. i2mo. London, 1889. $1.00 

This work is based upon a course of lectures given to an evening class of young me- 
chanical engineers on steam, steam-engines, and boilers. It is remarkably clear, concise, 
and practical ; no superfluous matter is introduced, and every page goes directly to the 
point. It is the best book for beginners, and also for those who wish to have a manual 
embracing the practical features of the subjects in small compass. 

Roper. Hand-Book of Modern Steam Fire Engines ; including the run- 
ning, care, and management of Steam Fire Engines and Fire Pumps. 
2d edition, revised and corrected by H. L. Stellwagen. Illustrated. 
i2mo, mor. tucks. Philadelphia, 1897. $3-5° 

■ Hand-Book of Land and Marine Engines, including the Modelling, 

Construction, Running, and Management of Land and Marine Engines 
and Boilers. 9th edition, revised, enlarged, and improved. i2mo, mor. 
tucks. Philadelphia, 1897. $3-5° 

Catechism of High Pressure or Non-Condensing Steam Engines, 



including the Modelling, Constructing, Running, and Management of 
Steam Engines and Steam Boilers. 20th edition, revised and enlarged. 
Illustrated. i2mo, mor. tucks. Philadelphia, 1897. $2.00 

■ Young Engineer's Own Book. Containing an Explanation of the 



Principle and Theories on which the Steam Engine as a Prime Mover is 
based, with a description of different kinds of Steam Engines, Condens- 
ing and Non-Condensing, Marine, Stationary, Locomotive, Fire, Trac 
tion, and Portable. 106 illustrations. 3d edition, revised. 16 mo, mor. 
tucks. Philadelphia, 1897. $3.00 

Rose. Modern Steam Engines. An Elementary Treatise upon the 
Steam Engine, written in Plain Language ; for use in the Workshop as 
well as in the Drawing Office. Giving Full Explanations of the Con- 



LIST OF BOOKS. 

struction of Modern Steam Engines; including Diagrams showing their 
Actual Operation ; together with Complete but Simple Explanation of 
the Operations of various kinds of Valves, Valve Motions, and Link 
Motions, etc., thereby enabling the ordinary engineer to clearly under- 
stand the Principles involved in their Construction and use, and to Plot 
out their movements upon the Drawing Board. New edition, revised 
and improved. 453 illustrations. 4to. Philadelphia, 1897. $6.00 

Key to Engines and Engine Running. A Practical Treatise upon 

the Management of Steam Engines and Boilers, for the use of those 
who desire to pass an Examination to take Charge of an Engine or 
Boiler. With numerous Illustrations and Instructions upon Engineers' 
Calculations, Indicator Diagrams, Engine Adjustments, and other Valu- 
able Information necessary for Engineers and Firemen. i2mo. N. Y. 
1899. $2.50 

Thurston. History of the Growth of the Steam Engine. 4th revised 
edition. Illustrated. i2mo. New York, 1897. $2.50 

Manual of the Steam Engine. For Engineers and Technical 

Schools. Part I. Structure and Theory. Illustrated. 8vo. New 
York, 1897. $6.00 

Part II. Design, Construction, and Operation. Illustrated. 8vo. New 

York, 1897. $6.00 

Or in sets. $10.0, 

Hand-Book of Engine and Boiler Trials, and of the Indicator and 

Prony Brake, for Engineers and Technical Schools. Illustrated. 8vo. 
New York, 1897. $5.00 

Stationary Steam Engines, Simple and Compound, especially as 

adapted to Electric Lighting Purposes. 5th edition, revised, with addi- 
tions. Illustrated. i2mo. New York, 1893. $2.50 

Turnbull. Treatise on the Compound Engine. 2d edition, revised and 
enlarged by Prof. S. W. Robinson. i6mo, boards. New York, 1884. 

#0.50 

Watson. Small Engines and Boilers. A Manual of Concise and 
Specific Directions for the Construction of Small Steam Engines and 
Boilers of Modern Types from five horse-power down to model sizes. 
i2mo, cloth. Illustrated with numerous diagrams and halftone cuts. 
New York, 1899. $1.25 

Weisbach. Heat, Steam, and Steam Engine. Translated from the 4th 
edition of Vol. II. of Weisbach's Mechanics. Containing notes giving 
practical examples of Stationary, Marine, and Locomotive Engines, 
showing American practice, by R. H. Buel. Numerous illustrations. 
8vo. New York, 1891. $5.00 



D. VAN NOSTRAND COMPANY. 

Whitham. Steam Engine Design. For the use of Mechanical Engi- 
neers, Students, and Draughtsmen. 3d edition, revised. With 210 
illustrations. 8vo. New York, 1898. $5.00 

Descriptive Treatise on Constructive Steam Engineering, embra- 
cing Engines, Pumps, and Boilers, and their accessories and appendages. 
Illustrations and many folding plates. 8vo. New York, 1897. $6.00 

Yeo, John. Steam and the Marine Steam Engine. 8vo. London, 1894. 

$2.50 
This book is intendad more particularly for engineers of tli3 Royal Navy, but will be 
exceedingly useful to those of thi mercantile mari.ie as well. It is almost entirely de- 
scriptive, and is noteworthy for what it omits as well as for what it contains. Although 
treating exclusively of the marine engine and boiler, there is so much in it that is general 
to all branches of steam engineering, and the whole is so well and clearly expressed, and 
shows such a profound knowledge of the subject, that it cannot fail to be of the highest 
value to the general student. 

TRANSMISSION OF POWER, BELTING, ETC. 

Compressed Air. Experiments upon the Transmission of Power by 
Compressed Air, in Paris (Popp's System), and the Transmission and 
Distribution of Power from Central Stations by Compressed Air. Illus- 
trated. i6mo. New York, 1892. . $0.50 

Toothed Gearing. A Practical Hand-Book for Offices and Workshops. 
By a Foreman Pattern Maker. 184 illustrations. i2mo. London, 
1892. $2.50 

Unwin. On the Development and Transmission of Power from Central 
Stations. Being the Howard Lectures delivered at the Society of Arts 
in 1893. Illustrated. 8vo. New York, 1894. $3- 50 

VALVES AND VALVE GEARS. 

Auchincloss. Practical Application of the Slide- Valve and Link-Motion 
to Stationary, Portable, Locomotive, and Marine Engines, w 7 ith new and 
simple methods for proportioning the parts. Illustrated. 13th edition, 
revised and enlarged. 8vo. New York, 1897. $2.00 

Bankson. Slide Valve Diagrams. A French Method of Obtaining 
Slide Valve Diagrams. 8 Plates. i6mo. New York, 1892. $0.50 

Buel. Safety Valves. i6mo, boards. New York, 1876. $0.50 

Halsey. Slide Valve Gears ; an explanation of the action and construc- 
tion of plain and cut-off slide valves. Analysis by the Bilgram Diagram. 
79 illustrations. 3d edition, i2mo. New York, 1894. $1.50 



LIST OF BOOKS. 

Le Van. Safety Valves ; Their History, Antecedents, Invention, and 
Calculation. 69 Illustrations. i2mo. New York, 1892. $2.00 

MacCord. Treatise on the Movement of the Eccentric upon the Slide 
Valve, and explaining the Practical Process of Laying out the Move- 
ments, adapting the Valve for its various duties in the Steam Engine, 
for the Use of Engineers, Draughtsmen, Machinists, and Students of 
Valve Motion in general. 2d edition. 4to. Illustrated. New York, 
1883. #2.50 

Peabody. Valve Gears and Steam Engines. 33 Plates. 8vo. New 
York, 1898. $2.50 

Rose. Slide Valve Practically Explained. Embracing Simple and 
Complete Practical Demonstrations of the Operations of each Element 
in a Slide-Valve Movement, and illustrating the effects of variations in 
their proportions, by examples carefully selected from the most recent 
and successful practice. Illustrated. i2mo. Philadelphia, 1895. #1.00 

Spangler. Valve Gears. 2d edition, revised and enlarged. 8vo. New 
York, 1898. $2.50 

Welch. Treatise on a Practical Method of Designing Slide Valve Gear- 
ing by Simple Geometrical Construction, based upon the principles enun- 
ciated in Euclid's Elements, and comprising the various forms of Plain 
Slide Valve and Expansion Gearing; together with Stephenson's, Gooch's, 
and Allen's Link Motions, as applied either to reversing or to variable 
expansion combinations. i2mo. London, 1875. $ 1 -5° 

Zeuner. Treatise on Valve Gears, with Special consideration of the link 
motions of locomotive engines. 4th edition. Translated by Prof. J. F. 
Klein. 8vo. London, 1884. $5-°° 



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